LIBRARY Of CONGRESS. 





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UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



OR 

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RAND, McNALLY & CO.'S 

POCKET CYCLOPEDIA 



A HAND BOOK OF THINGS WORTH KNOWING. 

Containing Tables, Rules, Practical Hints and Historical Sketches, for Farm- 
ers, Merchants, Mechanics, Bankers, Lawyers, Politicians, 
and the public generally, with 

NUMEROUS COLORED DIAGRAMS 

Illustrating some of the more important comparative statistics of the world. 



This Cyclopedia gives more entertainment, instruction and valuable in- 
formation per square inch of its pages than any other book ever published. 
The following TABLE OF CONTENTS will give some idea of its value: 

Selections for Albums.— Table of the Principal Alloys.— Ages Attained by Dif- 
ferent Animals. -Area and Population of Principal Countries of the World.— 
Officers of the United States Army and Navy.— Bible Facts.— First Translation of 
the Bible.— Ages attained by Birds.— Capacity of Boxes.— Notable Bridges of the 
World.— Facts for Builders. -Capacity of Cisterns and Wells.— Rule for Measuring 
the Capacity of Circular Cisterns.— Rule for Measuring the Capacity of Square 
Cisterns.— Climates of the United States.— Coins. Weights and Measures of Scrip- 
ture.— How to Measure Corn in Cribs -when Sides are Flaring,— Ho^v to Measure 
Corn in Cribs when Sides are Straight.— Days of the Week.— Distances by Water 
from New York to Foreign Ports.— Origin of the Dollar.— Chemical Names for 
some of the more common Drugs.— Presidential Elections: Popular and Electoral 
Votes for President and Vice-President of the United States from 1789 to 1880. - 
Filibuster.— Language of Flowers.— Flying Dutchman.— Digestion of Food.— Food 
for Stock.— Government of Foreign Countries.— Freezing. Fusing and Boiling 
Points.— Value of a Ton of Gold and Silver.— Historical Events. Handy Facts and 
Notable Discoveries.— Legal Holidays of the United States.— Facts Concerning the 
Horse.— Hints for Housekeepers.— Strength of Ice.— Inks and Paints: how to Mix 
Printing Inks and Paints in the Preparation of Tints.— Interest Laws in the United 
States.— First Locomotive used in the Lnited States.— Maine La.w.— Miscellaneous 
Measures.— Time at which Money Doubles at Compound Interest.— Value of For- 
eign Money in United States Currency.— The Derivations of the Names of the 
Months.— Number of Nails and Tacks in a Pound.— Depth of the Ocean.— Sizes of 
Flat Writing Paper.— Origin of the term Penny as applied to Nails.— Peter Funk.— 
Origin of Plants.— Antidotes for Poison.— Population of 100 Principal Cities of the 
Lnited States.— Postal Laws.— Food for Poultry.— Language of Precious Stones.— 
Prices of the Necessaries of Life in the United States and Europe in 1S78.— Public 
Debt of the United States at the close of each Administration.— First Railroads in 
the United States.— First Appearance of the Rooster in Politics.— Salt River.— 
Bushels of Seed to the Acre.— Vitality of Seeds.— The Seven Hills of Rome.— The 
Seven Sleepers.— The Seven Wise Men of Greece.— The Seven Wonders of the 
World.— Food for Sheep.— Cost of Smoking.— Number of Union Soldiers furnished 
by each State and Territory during the Rebellion.— Derivation of Names of States 
and Territories, Fictitious Names, Election Days, Governors' Salaries.— First 
Steamboat in the United States.— Comparative Strength of Timber and Cast Iron.— 
Tunnels of the World.— Government of the United States.— Comparative Rate of 
Weekly Wages Paid in Europe and the United States in 1878.— Cost of the Wars of 
the United States.— "Wedding Anniversaries.— Weight, Avoirdupois, of a Cubic 
r oot of Different Substances. 



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THE KITCHEN; 



E very-Day cookery, 



CONTAINING 3IANT USEFUL 



PRACTICAL DIRECTIONS, RECIPES, ETC. 

WITH NUMEROUS WOOD ENGRAVINGS 

SHOWING HOW TO CARVE, 

AND THE 

PROPER MODE OF SENDING DISHES TO TABLE.^~ 



A Companion Volume to Band, McXally & Co.'s Pocket Cyclopedia. 



I APR jj 1S85 

CHICAGO: 
Rand, McNallt & Company. 




Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1885, by 
RAND, McNALLY & COMPANY, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 



PREFACE. 



A great want will be met by this carefully prepared, condensed 
yet very comprehensive volume. It embraces, in small compass, direc- 
tions for every Department of Preparing" and Cooking Food, from the 
cutting block to the dessert, including Carving and Serving. It is 
intended to meet the necessities of all classes of housekeepers— those 
living on plain, simple food, and those requiring more costly dishes. 

A marked feature, however, is, that instead of giving a great num- 
ber of recipes, etc., with quantities stated in brief figures only, a 
smaller number of choice ones are selected, and the order and method 
of combining the materials, upon which the good quality often largely 
depends, are stated so plainly as to meet the wants of the most inex- 
perienced housekeepers. 

Every house provider should know how to select and order the dif- 
ferent cuts of meats from the butcher. We therefore give illustrations 
of the mode of cutting up the carcass, and the names and the use 
made of the different pieces. 

Carving, in the best manner, is an art that comparatively few pos- 
sess, and to aid the novice in this, we present sundry illustrative 
engravings and directions. A simple dish, judiciously prepared and 
properly carved and served, is more tasteful, more appetizing and 
more acceptable, than a much more costly one displayed without taste, 
and served in a bungling manner. "We present some Garnished Dishes, 
suggestive of what can be done to make the table attractive. 

In the preparation of the volume the Author has consulted various 
American and Foreign Works on Cooking and Housekeeping, and 
some professional Cooks of high standing, and gathered from these 
various sources the best materials, according to her judgment, aided 
by long practical experience and observation at home and abroad. 

The Publishers confidently believe this Hand-Book will prove both 
acceptable, and exceedingly valuable in every AMERICAN HOME. 



(3) 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

About Carving, . . . . . 5-21 

Beef, . 32-35 

Breakfast Rolls, etc., . . . . 64-67 
Cakes, . . . . . , . • . . 82-88 

Catsups, . . . . _ 57 

Dishes for Dessert, . . . . . .75-77 

Eggs, 95 

Fish, . . . 27-31 

Game, . . . 48-53 

Jams and Jellies, 89, 90 

Miscellaneous, 101 - 104 

Mutton, . . . . . . . .40-42 

Oysters, . . 54-56 

Pickles, . .92-94 

Pies, Tarts, etc., . . . , . . 78-81 
Pork, . . . . \ . . . . 39 

Poultry, . ■ 43-47 

Preserving Fruit, . . ... . 91 

Puddings, . . 68-73 

Salads, .58-60 

Sauces, 74 

Soups, 22-26 

Veal, 36-38 

Vegetables, ....... 96-100 

Yeast and Bread, 61-63 



(4) 



ABOUT CARVING. 



Directions. 

At a public dinner an eminent man of letters was attempt- 
ing to carve a turkey of somewhat uncertain age, when his 
fork slipped and the bird slid 'into the lap of a distinguished 
lady sitting opposite. Without seeming to be at all disturbed 
or disconcerted, he held out the platter in both hands and said, 
quite courteously, "Madam, I'll thank you for that turkey." 
Not many men are endowed with this degree of coolness 
under such circumstances. There are few persons who are so 
thoroughly skilled in table dissection as not to be embarrassed 
on being called upon to carve when surrounded by a company 
of strangers, or even friends. 

We present a few directions for some of the more difficult 
operations. In our observations abroad, and in looking 
'through a considerable number of English and French books 
on cooking and carving, to gather the best materials from all 
sources for this Manual, we have found that foreign customs 
are somewhat different from those prevalent in this country. 
For example, the larger English books, whose writers are less 
accustomed to our great American table-fowl — the turkey — 
direct to stuff only the breast • to lay the legs and wings close 
to the body, tying the former partly into the posterior cavity. 
Then in carving, it is directed to cut for the guests only from 
the breast, and to leave the entire legs and wings for the 
servants. In this country it is customary in cooking to stuff 
the entire cavity of the body, to lay the wings close to it, and 
to simply tie the ends of the limbs above. The bird is brought 

(5) 



6 



The Kitchen. 



to the table thus, lying squarely upon its back. Then, in 

serving, the "second joint" of the leg, that part nearest the 
body, is esteemed the choicest part, and to be offered to those 
entitled to most consideration, unless a preference is expressed 
for white meat only. If no preference is given, it is usual to 
serve a portion of both the breast and the second joint. A part 
of the wing is preferred by some. In fact, the most delicate 
parts are in two little muscles lying in small dish -like cavities 
on each side of the back, a little behind the leg attachments. 
The next most delicate meat rills the cavities in the neck-bone, 
and next to this, that on the second joints. The white breast 
meat is comparatively dry and flavorless. 

Beef. 

The manner of cutting up a side of beef is shown in the 
engraving on page 7. The muscles on the parts of the animal 
least used are the most tender and juicy, and are found along 
the back from the rump to the back pail of the shoulder, 
while the shoulder, neck and limbs are the toughest and least 
desirable. The names of the several joints in the hind and fore 
quarters, and their uses, are as follows : 

Hind Quartz/ 1 : 1. Sirloin; this includes the tenderloin on 
the part toward 9. separated from the sirloin proper by a few 
steaks termed pin steaks. 2. Rump ; a prime part for steaks. 
3. Aitchbone ; a good boiling piece. 4. Buttock ; prime 
boiling piece. 5. House-round; boiling or stewing. 6. Hock; 
soup piece or stewing. 7. Thick flank, cut with the udder fat: 
primest boiling piece. 8. Thin flank ; boiling. 

Fore Quarter: 9. Five ribs, called the fore-rib; this is 
considered the best roasting piece. 10. Four ribs, called the 
middle-rib ; greatly esteemed by housekeepers as the most 
economical piece for roasting. 11. Two ribs, called the chuck- 
ilb ; used for second quality of steaks. 12. Leg-of-mutton 



Cutting up Meats. 



7 



piece ; the muscles of the shoulder dissected from the breast. 
13. Brisket, or breast ; used for boiling after being salted. 

14. Neck, clod and 
sticking - piece ; used 
for soups, gravies, 
stocks, pies, sausages, 
etc. 15. Shin ; soups, 
stewing. 

The different pieces 
vary greatly in price, 
where there is a large 
call for "choice cuts." 

The following is a 
classification of the 
qualities of the several 
joints, as cut up, by 
this illustration I 

First Class. — In- 
cludes the sirloin, the 
tenderloin, with the 
kidney suet (1), the 
rump-steak piece (2), 
the fore-rib (9). 

Second Glass. — The 
buttock (4), the thick 
flank (7), the middle- 
rib (10). 

Third Class.— The 
aitchbone (3), the mouse- 
round (5), the thin flank 
(8), the chuck (11), the 
leg-of-mutton piece(12), 
Fig. 1. Showing a Side of Beef. the brisket (13). 




8 



The Kitchen. 



Fourth Glass. — The neck, clod and sticking-piece (14). 
Fifth Class.— The hock (6), the shin (15). 

Veal. 

The carcass is divided into four 
quarters, with twelve ribs to each fore 
quarter, and these quarters are again 
subdivided into joints, as shown in the 
figure. 

Hind Quarter: 1. The loin. 2. 
The chump, consisting of the rump 
and hock-bone. 3. The fillet. 4. The 
hock, or hind-knuckle. 

Fore Quarter : 5. 
The shoulder. 6,6. The 
neck. 7. The breast. 
8. The fore-knuckle. 

The several parts 
of a well-fed calf, not 
over fat, are nearly of 
the following weights: 
loin and chump, 18 
pounds ; fillet, 121 





pounds: hmd-knuckle Fig. 2. Side of a Calf, show- 
.i, j , , ing the several joints. 

5| pounds ; shoul- 
der, 11 pounds ; neck, 11 pounds ; breast, 9 
pounds ; fore-knuckle, 5 pounds ; mak- 
ing a total of 144 pounds weight. 

Mutton. 

Separate the hind from the fore 
quarters, leaving eleven ribs to the lat- 
ter. The quarters are again subdivided 



Fig. 3. A Side of Mutton, - , 11 _ 
showing the joints. as IOllOWS 



Cutting up Meats. 



0 



Hind Quarter: 1. The leg. 2. The loin. The two loins 
when in one piece are called the saddle. Fore Quarter : 
3. The shoulder. 4 and 5. The neck. 5 is also called 
the scrag, which is commonly separated from 4, the lower 
and better joint. 6. The breast. The haunch of mutton 
comprises all the leg and as much of the loin short of the 
rib or lap as is indicated on the upper part, or 2, by a 
dotted line. 

Pork. 

First, as to cutting up the carcass. The 
general practice is first to cut off the head 
and then split the carcass lengthwise through 
the spinal column. The 
hams and shoulders marked 
in the illustrations 1 and 4 
are usually cured. The 
sides are divided into hind 
and fore quarters. 

The parts of the hind 
quarter are : 1. The leg. 
2. The loin. 3. The spring 
(or belly). Parts of the fore 
quarter are : 4. The hand 
or shoulder. 5. The fore 
loin. 6. The cheek. Fig ^ 

Lamb* 

The mode of cutting up a side of lamb 
is almost the same as in mutton. The 
parts are thus designated : 1. The ribs. 2. 
The breast. 3. The shoulder. 4. The loin. 
5. The leg. 6. The neck. 
■ 5, o? L°amb SaSide Nos. 1, 2, 3 belong to the fore quarter. 






3 \ 




f 4 


\ 5 



10 



The Kitchen. 



In order to obtain the flavor of lamb in perfection, it 
should not be long kept. In purchasing for the table there 
are certain signs by which one can judge very accurately 
whether it has been long kept or not. If recently killed, the 
eye should be bright and dilated, and the quality of the fore 
quarter can be determined by the blue or healthy ruddiness 
of the jugular, or vein of the neck ; while the firm, compact 
feel of the kidney will answer in an equally positive manner 
for the goodness of the hind quarter. 

Beef Sirloin, 

The usual mode of serving this choice piece is as here 
represented, though some prefer the fillet — called also, under- 
cut and tenderloin — laid uppermost. The upper part should 
be cut in thin, even slices in the direction of the lines 5 to 6, 
and care should be taken to serve each guest to some of the 



3 




Fig, 6. 



fat with the lean 'unless it is found to be distasteful. A 
wasteful method, adopted by some, is to carve this piece in the 
direction of 3 to 4. The fillet, very much preferred by many, 
is much best eaten hot, hence should be served at once. The 
slices may be cut in the direction of 1 to 2. To do this 
easily, the piece should first be raised. It will be found a great 
assistance in carving this joint well, to insert the knife just 



About Caeying. 



11 



above the bone at the bottom and run sharply along, dividing 
the meat from the bone at the bottom and side. 

Rib Roast. 



This piece resembles the sirloin, except that it has no ten- 
derloin, and the mode of carving is the same, i.e., in the direc- 
tion of the lines 1 to 2. This piece will be more easily cut if 




Fig. 7. 



the plan be pursued which is suggested in carving the sirloin. 
Insert the knife between the bone and the meat, and separate 
them before beginning to cut it into slices. Let these always 
be thin and as even as possible. 

Saddle of Mutton. 

The carving of this joint is not diffi- 
cult : it is usually cut in the direction of 
1 the line from 2 to 1, quite down to the 
bones in evenly cut slices. Some, how- 
Fig- 8- ever, carve it obliquely in the direction 
of 4 to 3, in which case the joint should be turned round, 
bringing the tail end to the right of the carver. 




12 



The Kitchen. 



Haunch of Mutton, 



A deep cut should first be made quite down to the bone, 
across the knuckle end of the joint, along the line 1 to 2. 
This will let the gravy escape, and then it may be carved in 




Fig. 9. 

not too thick slices along the whole length of the haunch in 
the direction of the line from 4 to 3. 

A haunch of venison is carved in a similar manner. 



Leg of Mutton, 

"Wether mutton is most esteemed, and may be known by a 
lump of fat at the edge of the broadest part of the leg. The 
finest slices are to be obtained from the centre by carryiDg 
the knife sharply down in the direction of 1 to 2, and slices 




Fig. 10. 



About Carving. 



13 



may be taken from either side, as the guests may desire, some 
preferring it underdone, others the reverse. The fat may be 
found near the lines 3 to 4. Some prefer to have this joint 
brought to the table with the underside uppermost, so as to 
get at the finely grained meat lying under that part of the 
joint known as the Pope's eye. Some also prefer the knuckle, 
and others the cramp bone, which is found by cutting down 
to the top of the thigh bone and running the knife under it in 
a semicircular direction toward the joint. When sent to the 
table a frill of paper around the knuckle will improve its 
appearance. 

A leg of lamb, though much smaller than the mutton, may 
be carved in the same manner. 

Fore Quarter of Lamb. 

There is a little field for the carver's skill in separating the 
shoulder from the breast in the manipulation of this joint. 
Pass the knife in the direction of the dotted lines 1, 2, 3, 4, and 




Fig. 11. 

5, so as to cut through the skin, and then, with a little force, 
raising the shoulder, into which the fork should be firmly fixed, 
it will come away with a little more exercise of the knife. Care 



14 



The Kitchen. 



should be taken in removing the shoulder not to take too much 
meat from the breast and thus spoil its appearance. Next sep- 
arate the ribs from the brisket, by cutting in the line 5 to 6. 
The ribs may be carved in the direction of the lines 9 to 10, and 
the brisket from 7 to 8. The carver should always ask the 
guests whether they prefer ribs, brisket, or a piece of the 
shoulder. 

Calf's Head. 

This is not the most easy dish to carve when first attempted, 
but a few directions will make it plain. Insert the knife down 
to the bone, and cut slices in the direction of 1 to 2, Serve 
with each of these a slice of the throat sweet-bread, cut in the 




Fig. 12. 



direction of 3 to 4. The eye and the flesh round it are consid- 
ered dainty morsels with many, and should be given to those of 
the guests who are the greatest connoisseurs. To get at the 
eye, thrust the knife down on one side to the bottom of the 
socket and cut it quite round. The palate, or roof of the 



About Carving. 



15 



mouth, is also considered a great delicacy, and some fine lean 
will be found on the lower jaw, and nice gristly fat about the 
ear. The tongue and brains should be served in a separate dish, 
and each guest should be asked to take some of them. 



Knuckle of Veal. 




Fig. 13. 



The dotted line, 1 to 2 in the above, shows the direction 
which should be given to the knife in carving this dish- The 
most choice cuts lie on the outside of the dotted line. The 
most delicate fat lies about the part 4, and if cut in a line 
from 3 to 4, the two bones, between which the fat lies, will 
be divided. 

Ham* 

To reach the choicer portion of a ham, the knife, which 
must be very sharp and thin, should be carried quite down to 
the bone in the direction of 1 to 2. The slices should be thin 
and even, and have some of the fat with the lean. Some cut a 
circular hole in the middle of the ham, gradually enlarging 
it outwardly ; and others, who consult economy, begin at 
the hock-end and proceed onward till all is cut up. It 



16 



The Kitchen. 
I 



Fig. 14. 

should be sent to the table with a paper frill around the 
knuckle. 

A leg of roast pork is carved in the same manner as the ham. 
Roast Pig. 

A sucking pig is usually sent to the table as shown here- 
with, with the head detached, and both this and the body- 
parted down the middle. Place the sides of the pig back to 
back in the dish, with one-half of the head and one of the ears 
at each *end, and send to the table as hot as possible. Separate 
the shoulder from the carcass 



by carrying the knife around in 
the direction of the lines 1, 2, 3. 
The leg is next removed in the 
same manner as the shoulder, by 
cutting around the joint at 1, 2, 3. 




Separate the ribs into convenient Fl s- 15 - 

portions, in the direction of the line 4 to 5. The brains can 
now be taken out and served with the gravy and stuffing. 
Let the guests choose such parts as they prefer. The triangu- 
lar part of the neck is by many considered the most delicate, 
but some prefer the ribs, and others the shoulders. The larger 



About Caevin-g. 



17 



parts are usually reserved for the gentlemen. The tongue and 
brains are often served on a separate dish. 

Roast Turkey. 

Bring the turkey to the table, as represented below, with 
the head to the right hand of the carver. Fix the fork firmly 
in the breast, just forward of 2. First sever the legs and 
wings on both sides, if the whole is to be carved, cutting 
neatly through the joint next the body. Then cut slices from 
the breast in the direction of the lines 2, 3, beginning on the 
lower part, and laying the pieces neatly on the side of the 
platter. Then un joint the legs and wings at the middle joint, 




Fig. 16. 



which can be struck almost exactly by an expert carver, or 
after a little practice. Consult the tastes of the guests as to 
which part is preferred. If no preference is expressed, serve 
a portion of both light and dark meat. Cut a piece from 
the rear part (1, 1), called the apron, and expose the dress- 
ing, to which each should be served, unless it is declined in 
advance. 

Note. — The dressing is more readily accessible if the bird 
is placed with the head to the left. (See page 6.) 
2 



18 



The Kitchen. 




Fig. 17. 

Roast Goose. 

A little more dexterity and force are needed to carve a goose 
than some other fowls ; the beginning of the task, however, is 
not a difficult one. Carve evenly-cut slices from the breast in 
the direction of 2 to 3. Remove the apron by cutting in the 
line 1,1, to get at the stuffing, here located, 
some of which should be served to each 
guest unless it is not desired. The carver 
should make as many breast slices as possible, 
and then remove the wings and legs. This 
may be done by turning the goose on one 
side and putting the fork through the small 
end of the leg bone and pressing it close to 
the body, which, when the knife enters at 
the upper side, raises the joint ; the knife is 
then to be passed under the joint, loosening 
the thigh bone from the socket. To remove 
the wing, put the fork into the small end of 
the pinion, and, pressing it closely to the 
body, divide the joint at 5. The neck bones are freed the 
same as in a turkey. The breast of a goose is considered 
the most choice part, though all of the meat is good, and full 
of juicy flavor. 

The leg, wing and neck bone are shown above (Tig. 18). 






About Carving. 



19 



Roast Duck. 

No other dishes require so much skill in carving as game 
and poultry ; as it is necessary to be well acquainted with the 
anatomy of the bird in order to place the knife at exactly the 
right point. A young duckling may be carved, by first taking 
off the legs and wings, but if it is very small, it will be as 
well not to separate them, as they will both be needed for 



bone. If there is not enough meat on the breast to supply all 
the guests, the legs and wings must be used. The wing of a 
flyer and the leg of a swimmer are the most desirable portions 
of a duck. Some are fond of the feet, and in dressing the 
duck these should be skinned and never removed. 



Draw the knife the whole length of the backbone, as 
shown by the dotted line 3 to 4, dividing the body first into 
two parts. Remove the leg as shown by the line 5 to 6, and 




Fig. 19. 



a single portion in 
serving. When the 
duck is large, carve 
it like a goose, by 
cutting pieces from 
the breast, beginning 
close to the wing and 
proceeding upward 
toward the breast- 



Roast Rabbit. 




Fig. 20. 



20 



The Kitchen. 



the shoulder as indicated by the one from 7 to 8. Next, cut 
off the head and the ears close to the roots, and divide the 
upper from the lower jaw. Put the point of the knife into 
the forehead and divide it through the centre down to the 
nose. Cut the back into several pieces if large, into only two 
if small, and serve each guest, with dressing and gravy, to 
such parts as are preferred. 

Roast Partridge. 

There are several ways of carving this most familiar game- 
bird. The usual method is to carry the knife along the top of 
the breast-bone and cut it quite through, dividing it into two 
equal parts. Another mode is to cut it in three pieces, by sev- 




Fig. 21. 



ering a small wing and leg on either side from the body, thus 
making two helpings of these- parts, and one of the breast for 
a third plate. The third mode is to thrust back the body from 
the legs, and then cut through the middle of the breast, so as 
to give four or more small helpings. 

Boiled Salmon. 

First run the knife 
down to the bone 
along the side of the 
fish from 9 to 10, also 
from 3 to 4. Help 
the thick part length- 
wise, that is, in the 

Fig. 22. 




About Carving. 



21 



direction of the line from 9 to 10, and the thin part, breadth- 
wise, or in the direction of 7 to 8. A slice of the thick part 
■with one of the thin, where lies the fat, should be served to 
each guest. Care should be taken, 'in serving, not to break 
the flakes and thus impair its beauty. 

Cod's Head and Shoulders. 

Pass the fish slice in the direction of 2 to 5, down to the 
bone ; then help pieces between 1 and 6, or from the opposite 

side and serve some 
of the sound with 
each slice. This lies 
under the backbone, 
and is obtained by 
passing the knife in 
the direction of 2 to 
5. The oyster, or 
cheek below the eye, 
is a delicate part, as are the tongue and palate. To get at 
these, pass the slice or spoon into the mouth. 

Mackerel. 

The head and tail may be first removed by passing the 
slice downward from 1 and 2 ; they should then be split 
down the back, so as 
to serve each person 
to a side; or, if less is 
required, the thickest 
part should be given. 
The roe, which many 
esteem, will be found 
between 1 and 2. 

Fig. 24. 




Jb ig. 23 




SOUPS. 



Beef Stock. 

To make this merely for the stock, get a knuckle of beef 
and separate the beef from the bones, cutting it into small 
pieces. Break the bones also, and add to this 1 quart of 
water for each pound of meat. "When it begins to boil, remove 
the scum, being careful to do this so long as it rises. Set the 
soup kettle where it will simmer for 5 or 6 hours, or until the 
substance of the meat is thoroughly extracted. Then add salt 
sufficient to season it, and skim out the meat. Strain the 
liquid, and put it away to cool and for the fat to rise. When 
entirely cold, remove the fat and there will remain a firm, 
gelatinous mass, which can be used in soups, gravies, etc. 

Beef Soup. 

Put into beef stock made as above, 3 carrots, 2 turnips, 2 
onions, 1 head of celery, cut into small pieces; a little thyme, 
salt and pepper to taste, and simmer slowly until the vegeta- 
bles are done. Serve at once. 

Chicken Soup. 

Boil a pair of chickens with great care, skimming con- 
stantly, keeping them covered with water. When tender, take 
out the chicken and remove the bones. Put a large lump of 
butter into a spider, dredge the chicken-meat well with flour, 
and lay in the hot pan ; fry a nice brown, and keep hot and 
dry. Stir into 1 pint of the chicken water 2 large spoonfuls of 
curry powder, 2 of butter, 1 of flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt 

(22) 



Soups. 



23 



and a little cayenne ; then mix it with the broth in the pot. 
Simmer five minutes, add the browned chicken, and serve. 

Celery Soup. 

Make a good broth of a shank of beef, skim off the fat, 
and thicken the broth with a little flour mixed with water. 
Cut into small pieces 1 large bunch of celery, or 2 small ones ; 
boil them in the soup till tender. Add 1 cup of rich cream, 
with pepper and salt. 

Bean Soup. 

The small white field beans are preferable. Put them to 
soak the evening before in cold water. In the morning set 
them on to boil in the soaking water, or enough of it to keep 
them cooking well, without burning. Boil slowly until they 
have all bursted, then add them to the meat designed for the 
soup. A shin of beef, cut into small pieces, is good for this 
purpose. Add 1 quart of water for each pound of meat. One 
must watch this last process carefully, or the beans will burn. 
Put some small pieces of toasted bread into a soup tureen, and 
pour the soup over it. Split pea soup may be made in the 
same way as the above. 

Beef Tea. 

Cut 1 pound of perfectly lean beef into small pieces, half 
an inch square ; put them into a wide-mouthed jar, and cork 
tightly. Set the jar into a kettle of cold water placed on the 
stove where it will heat gradually until it boils. Keep it boil- 
ing an hour. Take out the jar, and, when cooled a little, strain 
the juice through a piece of coarse linen. Add no water or 
seasoning excepting a small pinch of salt. 

Tomato Soup. 

To 1 pint tomatoes canned, or 4 large raw ones, cut up 
fine, add 1 quart boiling water, and let them boil. Then add 



24 



The Kitchen. 



1 teaspoonful of soda, 1 pint of sweet milk, with salt, pepper 
and plenty of butter. When this boils, add 8 small crackers 
rolled fine. 

Ox-Tail Soup. 

Cut 2 ox-tails up at the joints, wash and put them in a 
kettle with 1 ounce of butter and i pint of water. Stir it over 
the fire till the juices are drawn, adding 2 carrots, 2 turnips, 
3 onions, 1 leek, 1 head of celery, 1 bunch of savory herbs, 1 
bay leaf, 12 peppercorns, 4 cloves. Cut the vegetables in slices, 
and pour over all 3 quarts of water and one tablespoonful salt. 
Skim well and simmer very gently 3 or 4 hours, or until ten- 
der. Take out the tails, strain the soup, thicken with flour, 
and add 2 tablespoonf uls catsup and -J glass of port wine. Put 
back the tails, simmer for 5 minutes, and serve. 

Soup a la Heine. 

Take the white meat of cold roast chicken and pound it 
with -J teacupful of slightly cooked rice. When well pound- 
ed, dilute with 1 quart of stock, strain through a sieve, and 
add salt and pepper to taste. Heat it, and serve. If stock 
is not at hand, put the chicken bones over to cook, with an 
onion, a blade of mace, a carrot, a few sweet herbs, salt and 
pepper, and stew 3 hours, 

Mock Turtle Soup. 

Scald a calf's head with the skin on, remove the brain, tie 
the head up in a cloth, and let it boil for 1 hour. Then take 
the meat from the bones, cut it into small square pieces, and 
throw it into cold water. When cool, put it into a stew-pan 
and cover with 3 quarts of stock ; let it boil an hour or more, 
then set it aside ; melt i pound of butter in another stew-pan 
and add i pound of ham cut small, 2 tablespoonf uls minced 
parsley, 2 onions, a few chopped mushrooms and nearly a pint 



Soups. 



25 



of stock ; let these simmer slowly for 2 hours and then dredge 
in flour to dry up tliejbutter. Add the rest of the stock and £ 
bottle of Madeira or sherry ; let it stew gently for 10 minutes ; 
rub it through a soup sieve. Put it to the calf's head ; season 
with cayenne, and, if requisite, a little salt ; add the juice of 
an orange and lemon, and, if liked, i teaspoonful of pounded 
mace. Put in forcemeat balls, simmer 5 minutes ; serve hot. 

Egg Soup. 

Beat a tablespoonful of flour in a teaspoonful of cold 
stock, and put in 4 eggs ; throw them into boiling stock, stirring 
all of the time. Add 2 small blades of mace. Boil 15 min- 
utes. Season, and serve with a French roll in the tureen, or 
with small bits of bread. 

Corn Soup. 

To 1 can of sweet corn take 1 quart each of milk and 
water. Season with salt, pepper, 2 tablespoonfuls butter and 

1 tablespoonful of flour. Boil 10 or 15 minutes. Add 2 or 3 
well-beaten eggs and % teacupful cracker crumbs. 

Asparagus Soup. 

To 50 heads of asparagus take 1 quart of stock. Boil the 
asparagus in 1 pint water until the heads are nearly done. 
Drain the asparagus, cut off the green heads, and put them 
aside until the soup is ready. Boil the stems a little longer 
in the stock, add the asparagus water, and when it boils, drop 
in the green heads — or peas, as they are called — and simmer 

2 or 3 minutes. After the soup is put into the tureen, a small 
quantity of sherry added to it improves it. 

Julienne Soup. 

Shred 2 onions, and fry brown in a i spoonful of butter ; 
add a little mace, salt and pepper ; then a spoonful or so of 



28 



The Kitchen. 



stock ; rub a tablespoonf ul of flour smooth with a little butter, 
and let fry with the onions; strain through.a colander, then add 
more stock as desired; cut turnip, carrot and celery in fillets; 
add a few green peas; boil tender in a little water, and add both 
water and vegetables to the soup. The flour can be left out, 
and it will make a clear, light-colored soup. In that case the 
onions should be cut in fillets and boiled with the vegetables. 

Oyster Soup, 

Pour 1 quart of boiling water into a kettle ; then 1 quart 
of good rich milk ; stir in 1 teacupf ul of rolled cracker 
crumbs, seasoned with pepper and salt to taste. When all 
come to a boil, add 1 quart of good -fresh oysters; stir well, so 
as to keep from scorching ; lastly add a piece of sweet butter, 
about the size of an egg ; let it boil up once ; then remove 
from the fire immediately ; dish up and send to table. 

Noodle Soup. 

Use either fresh beef or mutton. Allow a quart of water 
to each pound of meat, exclusive of the bones. When the 
scum no longer rises, add carrots, turnips and onions cut in 
small pieces, and boil until very tender. Remove the meat and 
strain the soup. Add a large quantity of the "noodles," made 
thus : Mix into pastry, flour, beaten eggs and a little butter. 
Boll this very thin, fold it up closely; cut it into strings like 
cutting cabbage for cold "slaw." Throw this into the soup, 
and boil 10 to 15 minutes. 



FISH. 



Fish are considered in best condition just before the spawn- 
ing season, and unfit for use when it is just over. The flesh 
will then assume a bluish tinge when boiled, but when in 
season it will boil white and curdy. It is a common error to 
wash fish too much, as thus its flavor is greatly impaired. It 
can be wiped very clean with a soft cloth, using scarcely any 




Fig. 25. 



water. For fish to be boiled, it is well to put a little salt and 
vinegar into the water after it is cleaned, to give firmness to 
the flesh. It should be put into cold water and set on the fire, 
where it will cook gently, or the skin will break before the 
inside is done. 

The carver should avoid the use of steel knives, and, if 
possible, serve with a silver fish slice. He should also serve 
each one to a piece of the choicest parts. 

Cod's Head and Shoulders. 

Cleanse the fish thoroughly, and rub a little salt over the 
thick part and inside of the fish one or two hours before dress- 
ing it, as this very much improves the flavor. Lay it in a fish- 
kettle, with sufficient cold water to cover it ; do not pour 
the water on the fish, as it is liable to break it. If the water 

im 



28 



The Kitchen. 



boils away, add a little by pouring it* in at the sides of the 
kettle. Add 5 ounces of salt to each gallon of water, and 
bring it gradually to a boil. Skim very carefully, and let it 
gently simmer till done, then take it out and drain. Place 
on a hot napkin, and garnish with lemon and horse-rad- 
ish. Oyster sauce and Dlain melted butter may be served 
with this. 

Boiled Salmon. 

Scale and clean the fish, being careful to remove all the 
blood ; lay it in" the fish-kettle, with salted water sufficient to 
cover it. Let it boil slowly, removing the scum as it rises. 
When it is done, which will be when the meat separates easily 
from the bone, take it from the kettle, drain it, and serve on a 
napkin with slices of lemon and parsley as a garnish. Send 
lobster or shrimp sauce and plain melted butter to table 
with it, A dish of dressed cucumber usually accompanies 
this dish. 

Fried Smelts, or Brocket of Smelts* 

Smelts should be very fresh, and not washed more than is 
necessary. Dry them in a cloth, and season with a little salt 
and pepper ; then dip them in beaten egg, and roll in fine 
cracker crumbs. Drop them in hot lard, and fry to a delicate 




Fig. 26. 



brown. Drain them on soft paper, being careful not to remove 
the light roughness of the crumbs. Arrange them on short 
skewers, as shown in Fig. 26, on a hot napkin, and garnish 
with lemon and curled parsley. 



Fish. 



29 



Baked Salmon Trout, with Cream Gravy. 

Clean the fish carefully, wipe it dry and lay in the baking- 
pan, salting and peppering it a little, and adding very little 
water. Baste it frequently with butter and water. When it is 
done, have ready a gravy made of a cup of cream, thinned with 
three or four tablespoonfuls hot water. Stir into this two 
tablespoonfuls melted butter and a little minced parsley. Put 
it on to scald in a farina boiler, and stir into it a little thicken- 
ing ; also add to it the gravy from the baked fish Lay the 
trout on a platter and pour the gravy over it. Garnish with 
parsley and sliced lemon. 

Sun Fisfc, 




^1 Fig. 27. 



This fish is doubtless so named from its circular form and 
shining surface. It is an excellent pan fish. Roll in cracker 
crumbs, fry a golden brown ; season with salt and pepper. 

Baked Shad. 

Thoroughly clean the shad, leaving the head on, as it looks 
much better when sent to the table. Wipe it very dry, have 



30 



The Kitchen, 



it opened on the belly, stuff it with bread crumbs seasoned 
with cream or butter, and a little milk, salt, pepper, and a 
sprig of thyme, or, if preferred, a little chopped onion. Sew 
it up carefully, put it in the dripping-pan. with very little 
water. Baste it occasionally with salted water and butter. 
Bake an hour, and serve with caper sauce. 

Sheepshead. 



This excellent fish is found along the whole Atlantic coast 
to as far north as Cape Cod. It is so named from the resem- 
blance of its profile and teeth to those of a sheep. Its habits 




are also suggestive of the same animal, as it feeds with a 
grazing motion upon barnacles and shells. It may be fried or 
broiled, as best suits one's tastes. 



Forcemeat Balls, for Fish Soups. 

One middling-sized lobster, i an anchovy, one head of 
boiled celery, the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, salt, cayenne, and 
mace to taste ; 4 tablespoonfuls of bread crumbs, 2 ounces of 



Fish. 



81 



butter, 2 eggs. Pick the meat from the shell of the lobster and 
pound it with the soft parts in a mortar ; add the celery, the 
yolk of the egg, seasoning and bread crumbs. Mix the whole 
thoroughly either in a mortar or by kneading. Warm the 
butter and beat the eggs well, and amalgamate them with the 
pounded lobster meat. Make the balls about an inch in 
diameter, and fry a nice brown. Eighteen or twenty of these 
suffice for one tureen of soup. 

Spanish Mackerel. 



This popular fish is rarely found north of Cape Cod, as it 
prefers a warm climate ; but they are abundant on the Gulf 
coast of Florida, and at various other points on the Gulf. Open 




them on the back, and broil over a clear fire, avoiding scorch- 
ing, as the delicate flavor is easily impaired. Season with but- 
ter, pepper and salt to taste. Serve at once. 



Scalloped Fish. 

Pick any cold fish carefully from the bones, and moisten 
with milk and an egg. Place in a deep dish the fish with bread 
crumbs, a teaspoonful of anchovy sauce, 1 blade pounded mace, 
2 tablespoonfuls butter, and salt to taste. Put the crumbs on 
the top, with butter, and brown in the oven. Serve very hot. 



BEEF. 



Roast Beef* 

vA piece of beef weighing 8 or 10 pounds will take a little 
over 2 hours to roast. Some allow 15 minutes to each 
pound of beef. Prepare it by wiping with a dry napkin, but 
never washing, rub over it a little salt and pepper, and put it 
into a dry pan to roast in a hot oven. The heat will soon seal 
in the juices and retain them till the piece is cut at the table. 
Baste occasionally. If the flavor of sweet herbs and vegetables 
(as carrot, turnip, onion, etc;) is relished in the gravy, put a 
few slices of these last, with a bay leaf or two and a little 
thyme and parsley, into the pan, to make a bed on which to 
lay the beef. When it is done, add more seasoning, remove 
the beef, take out the vegetables if used, add hot water to the 
gravy, thicken it, being careful to avoid lumps. Serve either 
over the meat or in a gravy-boat, as one prefers. 

Beefsteak. 

Select choice steaks, from f of an inch to 1 inch thick; trim 
off all superfluous fat and bone. Broil on a wire gridiron, over 
a clear but not too hot fire. Watch it carefully, to avoid scorch- 
ing. When browned nicely, remove to a platter, season with 
pepper, salt, and a pretty liberal supply of butter. No definite 
rule can be given as to the time of cooking steak, individual 
tastes differ so widely in regard to it, some only liking it 
when well done, others so rare that the blood runs out of it. 

A La Mode Beef. 

Take a piece of beef four or five inches thick, and with a 
small knife make little holes entirely through it at small dis- 

(32) 



Beef. 



33 



tances apart. Then roll strips of fat salt pork in pepper and 
cloves and draw them into these openings; lay on a pan, cover 
closely, put in a steamer, and steam for three hours. When 
done, thicken the gravy with a little flour. This is excellent 
eaten as cold meat. 

Staffordshire Beefsteak. 

Beat the steaks a little with a rolling-pin, flour and season, 
then fry with a sliced onion to a fine light brown ; lay them 
into a stew-pan, and pour as much boiling water over them as 
will serve for sauce ; stew them very gently half an hour, and 
add a spoonful of catsup before serving. 

Pressed Beef, 

Select any kind of lean beef, as the shoulder clod or the 
upper part of round beef, next to the soup pieces. Cut it into 
small pieces and put over it enough cold water to come up 
around it. Cover the kettle closely, so as to keep in all the 
steam. Cook slowly until it will all fall to pieces, which 
takes several hours. It must be watched, to avoid boiling 
away or scorching. There should be less than a teacupful of 
liquor to four pounds of meat. Skim off all the fat from the 
top. While hot, stir in this liquor a good sized teaspoonful 
of gelatine. After removing all the bones and fat from the 
meat, chop it fine while hot. Then put it in the dish for press- 
ing. Pour over the liquor, stir it up well, add salt to taste, 
and pepper also, if one likes it. Then turn a plate over it, 
put on a heavy weight, and let it stand a few hours to harden. 

Roast Beef, with Yorkshire Pudding, 

Put the meat in a hot oven, after dredging it with flour. 
Baste it frequently. Half an hour before it is done, put it 
over the pudding made thus : Put 6 large tablespoonfuls flour 
into a basin with a little salt, and stir gradually into this li 
3 



34 



The Kitchein, 



pints milk and 3 eggs. Beat the mixture for a few minutes, 
pour it into a shallow, buttered tin, bake it for an hour, and, 
for another half hour, place it under the meat to catch a little 
of the gravy that flows from it. Cut the pudding into small 
square pieces, put them on a hot dish, and serve. The beef, 
for this purpose, should rest upon a small three-cornered stand. 

Corned Beef. 

Put it into cold water to cook, and keep it well covered till 
very tender. Let it cool in the liquor, unless it is to be eaten 
hot. Take out the bones, and press in a mould or on a plate. 

Fried Beef's Lirer. 

Cut rather thin, and pour boiling water over it; drain per- 
fectly. Roll the liver in fine bread crumbs, season with salt 
and pepper, and fry quickly in hot fat to a crisp brown. 

Boiled Beers Tongue. 

Boil in plenty of water till very tender. If a salt tongue is 
used, either soak it in water over night before cooking, or pour 
oft the first water in boning. "While warm, remove the skin. 

Boiled Tongue, with Tomato Sauce. 

Half boil a tongue, then stew it with a sauce made of a little 
broth, flour, parsley, 1 small onion, 1 small carrot, salt and 
pepper, and 1 can of tomatoes cooked and strained. Lay 
the tongue on a dish and strain the sauce over it. 

Mince Meat, 

Boil 3 pounds of lean beef until very tender, then chop fine. 
Mix with this, 1 pound beef suet, fine ; 5 pounds apples, 2 
pounds raisins, 2 pounds currants, 2 tablespoonfuls cinna- 
mon, 1 tablespoonful each of mace and cloves, 1 nutmeg, 
grated ; i tablespoonful allspice — all the spices ground ; 1 tea- 



Beef. 



35 



spoonful salt, 2i pounds sugar, a quart of sweet cider, and 1 
pint of brandy. Have the cider boiling hot, and the brandy 
cold, when added. If this is followed exactly, and the mince 
meat kept in a cool place, it will keep all winter. It should 
stand a day or two after mixing before it is used. 

Curried Beef. 

A few slices of tolerably lean cold roast or boiled beef, 3 
ounces of butter, 2 onions, 1 wineglass of beer, 1 dessert spoon- 
ful of curry powder. Cut the beef into pieces about an inch 
square. Put the butter into a stew-pan, and fry the onions to 
a light brown. Add the other ingredients, and stir gently over 
a brisk fire about 10 minutes. Should this be thought too 
dry, more beer, or a little gravy or water, may be added, but 
a good curry should not be veiy thin. Place it in a deep dish, 
with an edging of boiled rice, the same as for other curries. 

Beef Kidney, to Dress. 

Cut the kidneys into neat slices, soak them in warm water 
2 hours, changing it two or three times ; then dry them on a 
clean cloth and fry to a nice brown in butter. Season each 
side with pepper and salt and pour over them a highly sea- 
soned gravy in which has been mixed 1 tablespoonful lemon 
juice and i teaspoonful powdered sugar. 

Beef Rissoles. 

To each pound of cold roast beef allow f pound of bread 
crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, a few chopped savory herbs, 
\ a teaspoonful minced lemon-peel, 2 eggs. To the meat, 
minced fine, add the bread crumbs, seasoning, lemon-peel and 
eggs in the above proportion. Make all into a thick paste ; 
divide into balls or cones, and fry a rich brown. Garnish 
with parsley, and serve either with or without a brown gravy, 
as preferred. 



VEAL. 



Roast Veal. 

Select meat that is firm and the fat white. The loin is one 
of the most desirable parts for roasting. Rub it well with salt 
and a little pepper. Either with or without a larding needle, 
draw in bits of salt pork to give it richness. Make a dressing 
of bread crumbs, well seasoned and moistened with milk or 
water. Fasten this in under the loin securely, and put into a 
hot oven to bake. Baste it frequently, and when well done, 
take up ; thicken the gravy, and serve. The same herbs and 
vegetables that are used for roasting beef may be put under 
the veal if preferred. 

Minced Veal. 

Take 3 pounds of uncooked veal, chop fine ; add 3 beaten 
eggs, butter the size of an egg, 4 rolled crackers, and enough 
pepper and salt to season well ; 1 grated nutmeg ; mix. Press 
it into a crock or earthen dish, and bake half an hour. When 
ready to serve, turn it out and slice down on a platte?. Beef is 
good prepared in the same manner. 

Fricandeau of Veal. 

Choose a thick piece of veal from the leg, weighing three 
or four pounds, and lard it thus : Cut from very firm salt 
pork, pieces i of an inch thick and 3 or 4 inches long. 
With the sharp point of a knife, make incisions in the upper 
part of the veal ; draw into each of these a strip of the pork. 
Continue this process until the whole top is covered with the 
larding. Let every alternate strip lie in a different direction, 
so as to give an ornamental finish to the top. Put into the 

(36) 



Veal. 



37 



oven and bake ; when the juices are sealed in, or in half an 
hour, season it with salt and pepper. Do not let it scorch. 
When done, make a gravy as for roast veal. 

Veal Croquettes. 

k Take very fine minced veal, moisten with cream and a 
beaten egg ; season with salt, sweet marjoram and a little 
pounded mace ; form into small cones either by hand or in a 
wine glass ; crumb the outside, and fry, or else set in the oven 
and bake, basting frequently. 

Veal Cutlets and Olives. 

This is very pretty for a luncheon or supper dish, and also 
appropriate for an entree. Prepare the cutlets by cutting them 
in oval form two or three inches wide, a little longer, and half 




Fig. 30. 



an inch thick. Dip them in egg, then in fine cracker crumbs, 
and repeat this until they are thoroughly encrusted ; then fry 
them Carefully in butter. Arrange them on the platter, as 
shown above. Garnish with olives. 

Veal Collops. 

Cut veal from the leg or other lean part into pieces the size 
of an oyster. Season with pepper, salt and a little mace ; rub 
some over each piece ; dip in egg, then into cracker crumbs, 
and fry. They both look and taste like oysters. 



38 



The Kitchen. 



Boiled Calf's Head (with the Skin on). 

Put the head into boiling water and let it remain 3 or 4 
minutes ; take it out, hold it by the ear, and (with the back of 
the knife) scrape off all the hair. When clean, take out the 
eyes, cut off the ears, and remove the brains, which soak for 
an hour in warm water. Put the head into hot water for a few 
minutes, to make it look white, then lay it in a stew-pan, and 
gradually bring it to boil. Simmer it very gently from 2 J to 3 
hours ; when nearly done, boil the brains i hour. Skin and 
chop them, not too finely, adding a tablespoonful of minced, 
scalded parsley. Season with pepper and salt, and stir the 
brains, parsley, etc., into 4 tablespoonfuls of melted butter ; 
add 1 tablespoonful of lemon juice, 2 or 3 grains of cayenne, 
and keep these hot by the fire. Take up the head, cut out the 
tongue, skin it, put it on a small dish with the brains round 
it ; sprinkle bread crumbs over the head ; brown it in the oven, 
and serve with a tureen of parsley and butter, and either boiled 
ham, bacon, or pickled pork, as an accompaniment. 

Boiled Calfs Feet and Parsley and Butter, 

Take 2 white calves' feet ; bone them as far as the first 
joint, and soak 2 hours in warm water. Put them in a 
saucepan, with 2 slices of bacon, 2 ounces butter, 2 table- 
spoonfuls lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste, 1 onion, a 
bunch of savory herbs, 4 cloves, 1 blade of mace, a little minced 
parsley, and water enough to cover the whole. Stew slowly 
for about 3 hours, then take out the feet, dish them, and cover 
with parsley and butter. The liquor they were boiled in 
should be strained and put by for use ; it will be found very 
good as an addition to gravies. 



PORK. 



Boiled Ham, 

Soak in water a few hours, and put on to boil in enough 
cold water to cover it ; cook slowly till tender. Let it remain 
in the kettle to cool, and take off the skin and smoky parts. 
Dust it with cracker crumbs, having first coated it with egg. 
Put it into the oven and let it bake slowly for an hour. 

Broiled Ham. 

The thickness of the slices must depend upon individual 
tastes, some liking it very thin, others the reverse. Have a 
clear fire, not too hot. So soon as partially browned, dip it 
into cold water and return to the gridiron ; repeat this process 
twice, unless the ham is very fresh. Then finish it carefully, 
butter and send to the table hot. 

Ham Omelet. 

Take 6 eggs, 4 ounces butter, a pinch of pepper, 2 table- 
spoonfuls ham. Mince the ham very fine, and fry it 2 minutes 
in a little butter ; then make the batter for the omelet ; stir in 
the ham, and proceed as in the case of a plain omelet. Do 
not add salt to the batter, as the ham seasons it sufficiently. 
Good lean bacon or tongue answers equally well for this dish. 

Ham and "Eggs, 

Fry the ham quickly, having previously soaked it for a 
little while in cold water. Place on a platter. Drop into this 
hot fat, eggs from a saucer, so as not to break them. Let 
them cook slowly, by dipping the hot fat over them. Lay 
each one, as done, on the slices of ham. Garnish with parsley, 
and serve at once. 

(39) 



MUTTON. 



Spring- Lamb, with Mint Sauce* 

Select a quarter of lamb that is fat, and has not been too 
recently killed. Season it well by rubbing salt on. all parts 
thoroughly. Roast till tender., basting it with the drippings. 
For the mint sauce, strip the leaves from spearmint, chop 
them very fine, add a little salt, a large spoonful powdered 
sugar and a cupful of vinegar. Pour the vinegar over the 
mint sometime before it is to be seiwed, so as to draw out 
the strength. Serve this with the lamb, which may be gar= 
nished with curled parsley and lemon. 

Lamb Chops. 

A pyramid of gold-browned mashed potatoes with a border 
of lamb chops, makes a pretty entree. Trim the chops well 




Fig. 31. 



before cooking, leaving only a thin border of fat around the 
edge ; fry in hot lard to a nice color. Arrange them around 
the potato centre, as seen above. 

Boiled Leg of Lamb. 

Choose a joint weighing about 5 pounds. Plunge it into 
a kettle of boiling water to seal in the juices ; when it boils 
up again, draw it from the fire and let it cook slowly 1* hours-, 
9r until tender. Make a white sauce, dish the lamb and pour 

(40) 



MUTTOX. 



41 



it over it, garnishing with tufts of cauliflower or carrots. Send 
to the table some of the sauce in a tureen. 

Boiled Mutton, with Caper Sauce. 

Boil a leg of mutton in plenty of water, 2 to 3 hours, 
depending upon the weight of the piece. Make a sauce of 
milk or water, as preferred, adding butter, pepper, salt, and 
two tablespoonfuls caper sauce. Some put a little vinegar in 
the water in which the mutton is boiled, if not very young. 

Saddle of Mutton. 

To prepare this handsome entree, remove all the bones 
carefully without injury to the skin on the upper side. Fill 
this cavity with dressing, and roll the whole up in a buttered 
cloth, tying with a string. Stew li hours in white stock, with 




Fig. 32. 



the usual amount of stock vegetables. Then press it between 
two plates until cold. Before serving, make it hot (but do 
not boil it) in a little of the stock, place it on a dish, as seen 
in Fig. 32, garnish with button mushrooms, truffles and lemons. 
Pour Allemande or any good cold sauce over the meat. 

Mutton Stew. 

Take pieces of mutton unfit for cutlets, cover with water ; 
add a little onion and parsley, and season well with pepper 
and salt. Cook slowly until the meat is very tender. Thicken 



42 



The Kitchen. 



the gravy with flour and the grated yolks of 2 hard-boiled 
eggs. Serve as soon as it boils up. 

Mutton Collops. 

Cut some very thin slices from the leg or the thick end 
of a loin of mutton, sprinkle with pepper, salt, pounded mace, 
savory herbs, and a little chopped onion : fry them in butter, 
stir in a dessert spoonful of flour, add i pint gravy and a 
little lemon juice. Simmer gently about 5 minutes, and serve, 

Broiled Mutton, with Tomato Sauce. 

Cut slices from a leg or a shoulder of mutton, broil them 
quickly over a clear tire, and season with pepper and salt. 
Make some tomato sauce by cooking and straining it through 
a colander, and adding butter, salt, pepper and a little cracker 
dust. Pour it over the mutton, and serve very hot. 

Lamb Cutlets and Green Peas. 

Trim lamb cutlets carefully, leaving the ends bare for an 
inch or more, making them about f of an inch in thickness. 
Broil over a clear fire to a nice brown. Season with butter, 




Fir. Sc. 



pepper and salt. Allow two cutlets to each person. Arrange 
on a platter, as shown in Fig. 33, with a bed of green peas 
around them. Either asparagus or spinach may be used in- 
stead of the peas. 



POULTRY. 



Select young fowls — plump, white, and not overfed. If 
their legs are smooth, and the cartilage soft at the end of the 
breast-bone, they are young. For boiling, white-legged ones 
are preferred, as the meat is whiter ; but for roasting, the 
darker-legged varieties are thought to be more juicy. 

Croquettes of Fowl. 

Mince together the dark and white meat from a cold fowl. 
Put it into a saucepan with some of the liquor in which the 
chicken was boiled. Add a tablespoonful of cream, and a little 
salt and pepper, thicken it with flour. Let it come to a boil, 
and pour it into a dish. When cool, make it into rolls or 




Fig. 34. 



small conical shapes. Roll each in fine cracker or bread 
crumbs, then in well-beaten eggs, and again in the crumbs. 
Have ready a kettle of hot lard, drop them in, and cook to a 
light brown. Arrange them on a napkin in a dish as shown 
above. Garnish with curled parsley. 

Broiled Chicken. 

For broiling, young chickens should be chosen, and care- 
fully dressed. Cut them open on the back, laying them out as 

(43) 



44 



The Kitchen. 



flat as possible. Cut off the first joint of the wings and neck, 
and cook them with the giblets. Have a clear, but not too hot 
fire, over which to broil them. Watch carefully, so as to have 
every part nicely browned, but not scorched. Take up on a 
hot platter, season with pepper and salt, and a liberal supply of 
butter. Chop the giblets, with the little meat from the neck 
and wing- tips -; thicken, and serve, either by pouring over the 
chicken, or in a gravy tureen. 

Roasted Chicken. 

Select a good-sized, plump, but not too fat, chicken ; pluck 
it carefully, and wash in cold water. Make a dressing of bread 
crumbs, with a little butter, salt, pepper, thyme, and 1 or 2 
eggs. Soften it with milk or water. Fill the fowl with the 
dressing, sew up, skewer well, and put it in the pan to bake. 
Baste frequently with butter and water, and turn it occasion- 
ally. If it browns too fast, cover the exposed parts with but- 
tered paper. When done, remove from the oven, and keep 
hot till the gravy is made ready. The giblets should be cooked 
and chopped while the chicken is roasting, and put into the 
gravy after the thickening has been added. Serve at once. 

Curried Chicken. 

Slice 2 large onions ; peel, core, and chop an apple, and cut 
the fowl into joints; fry these brown in 2 ounces of butter, 
then add a dessert-spoonful of curry powder, $ pint of gravy, a 
teaspoonful flour, and stir for about 20 minutes. Put in 1 
tablespoonful lemon juice, and serve with boiled rice, either 
placed in a ridge around the dish, or separately. 

Pressed Chicken. 

Cook three or four chickens in a little water, until very 
tender, so that the flesh will readily separate from the bones. 



Poultry. 



45 



Season the whole. Then take ovft the meat and pick it up fine, 
removing the skin, and mixing the white and dark meats 
together. Add to the liquor in which they were boiled a table- 
spoonful of cooking gelatine for each three or four pounds of 
chicken. Place the chicken in a mould, or earthen dish, and 
pour the liquor over it while hot. Stir it up well, then turn a 
plate over it, put on a heavy weight, and set it away to cool. 

Chicken Pie. 

Prepare the chicken as for stewing, and cook until it begins 
to get tender. Cover the bottom of a basin with peeled pota- 
toes partly cooked, putting them in with the chicken ; make the 
crust of 1 pint of buttermilk, 1 even teaspoonful soda, butter 
about the size of a hen's egg, a pinch of salt, and flour enough 
to roll well. Merely line the sides of the pan with crust. Thick- 
en the gravy, and pour it over the chicken, season with butter, 
pepper and salt. Cover the top with crust about one-half inch 
thick. Bake 30 minutes in a moderately hot oven. 

Potted Chicken. (A Luncheon or Breakfast Dish.) 

Strip the meat from the bones of a cold roast fowl ; to every 
pound of meat allow i pound of butter, salt and cayenne to 
taste ; 1 teaspoonful pounded mace, \ small nutmeg. Cut the 
meat into small pieces, pound it well with the butter, sprinkle 
in the spices gradually, and keep pounding until reduced to a 
perfectly smooth paste. Put it into small jars, and cover with 
clarified butter, about i of an inch in thickness. Two or three 
slices of ham, minced and pounded with the above, will be an 
improvement. Keep in a dry place. 

Roast Goose. 

Select a goose with a clean white skin, plump breast and 
yellow feet ; if these latter are red, the bird is old. Hanging 



46 



The Kitchen. 



a few days improves the flavor. Pluck, singe, draw and care- 
fully wash and wipe the goose ; cut off the neck close to the 
back, leaving the skin long enough to turn over ; cut off the 
feet, and beat the breast bone flat, Put a skewer through the 
under part of each wing, draw up the legs closely, put a 
skewer into the middle of each and pass it through the body. 
Make a stuffing of bread crumbs, onions, sage, butter, salt 
and pepper to taste ; put it into the body of the goose and 
secure it firmly. Roast in a hot oven from H to 2 hours, ac- 
cording to size, keeping it well basted. Remove the skewers, 
serve with a tureen of good gravy and one of apple sauce. 

Roast Ducks. 

Ducks may be trussed with the feet on, which should be 
scalded, the skin peeled off, and then turned up close to the 
legs. Draw the legs as closely as possible to the body, to 
plump up the breast, passing the skewer quite through the 
body. If cooking a pair, make a stuffing of sage and onion 
sufficient for one duck, and leave the other unseasoned, as the 
flavor is not liked by every one. Put them in a hot oven to 
roast, and baste very often. Send them to the table with a 
good brown gravy poured round but not over them, and a 
little of the same in a tureen. When in season, green' peas 
should accompany this dish. 

TURKEYS. 

Young cock turkeys may be known by their short spurs 
and black legs; if the spurs are long and the legs rough, they 
are old; if the eyes are dull and the feet dry the bird has been 
long killed. They should never be dressed the same day they 
are killed ; if the weather will admit of it they should hang 
from three to seven days before picking, as this will greatly 
improve their flavor and quality. 



Poultry. 



47 



Roast Turkey. 

Have the turkey well picked, washed and thoroughly dried. 
Prepare a stuffing of bread crumbs, butter, summer savory 
or sweet thyme, pepper and salt to taste, and some prefer a 
little onion chopped very fine. Fill the breast and body with 
the stuffing, sew up the openings, truss it, and put it in the 
pan to roast. It requires frequent basting. When done, make 
a brown gravy and add the chopped giblets, which should be 
boiled tender in advance. Fried sausages make a pretty gar- 
nish for roast turkey, and some like the flavor of a little 
chopped sausage in the dressing. 

Boiled Turkey. 

Prepare the fowl the same as for roasting, and make a stuff- 
ing of bread crumbs mixed with cream or butter, oysters and the 
yolks of eggs. Fill the bird, sew it in, truss it, and place it in 
sufficient boiling water to cover it well. Let it cook slowly 
for two hours, more or less, depending upon its size. Skim it 
well while boiling. Serve it with celery sauce or with drawn 
butter and oysters. 

Force-meat for Veal, Turkeys, Fowls, etc. 

Take 2 ounces of ham or lean bacon, £ pound of suet, and 
the rind of \ a lemon, 1 teaspoonful each of minced parsley 
and sweet herbs ; salt, cayenne and pounded mace to taste ; 
6 ounces of bread crumbs, 2 eggs. Shred the ham or bacon, 
chop the suet, lemon peel and herbs, taking great care that 
all be finely minced ; add a seasoning to taste of salt, cay- 
enne and mace, and blend all thoroughly together with the 
bread crumbs before wetting. Beat the eggs, and work them 
up with the other ingredients, and the force-meat will be ready 
for use. Either fry the balls in hot lard, or put them on a tin 
and bake \ an hour in a moderate oven. 



GAME. 



Game, as woodcock, partridge, snipe, etc., should not be 
plucked until a day or two after they are killed ; and, if the 
weather will allow, they are better flavored for hanging 3 or 4 




Fig. 35. 1. Snipe; 2. QuaiL 

days in a cool place before cooking. The tastes of the guests 
vary as to the time of keeping ; and what would be delicious to 
some, would be wholly unpalatable to others. 

Roast Snipe. 

Pluck and wipe the birds on the outside. They are said to 
be best without drawing ; but one's taste must govern in the 

(48) 



Game. 



49 



matter. Skin the head and neck, and truss them with the head 
under the wing. Twist the legs at the first joint, press the 
feet upon the thighs, and pass a skewer through these and the 
body. Roast in a quick oven. Serve on toast, and pour 
around them a little good brown gravy. They should be sent 
to the table very hot. 

For small birds, dress them nicely, split them down the 
back, cleaning out well, and drying on a napkin. Lay them 




Fig. 36. 1. Red-Breasted Snipe; 2. Avoset; 3. Solitary Sandpiper; 4. Yellow- 
Shank Snipe; 5. Tell-Tale Snipe. 



out flat on a hot gridiron over a clear fire. Turn frequently, 
and when done, sprinkle salt and pepper over them. Lay 
each bird on a slice of buttered toast. Spread butter over 
the birds, and set in the oven for a few minutes ; serve while 
very hot. 

Roast Partridge. 

Let the birds hang as long as possible, then pluck and draw 
them ; wipe but do not wash them, inside and out, and truss 
4 



50 



The Kitchek. 



them without the head, the same as for roast fowl. Put them 
into a hot oven, keep them well basted while cooking, and 
serve them on buttered toast, soaked in the dripping-pan,' with 
a little butter poured over them, or with bread sauce and gravy 




Fig. 37. 1. Esquimaux Curlew; 2. Red-Backed Snipe; 3. Willet, or Semi-Pal- 
mated Snipe; 4. Godwit Sandpiper. 




Fig. 38. 1. Turn-Stone; 2. Ash-Colored Sandpiper; 3. Purre; 4. Black-Bellied 
Plover; 5. Red-Breasted Sandpiper. 



Game. 



51 



Woodcock. 

Woodcocks should not be drawn, as their trails are con- 
sidered a great delicacy. Pluck and wipe them well, truss 
them with the legs close to the body, skin the neck and head, 
and bring the beak round under the wing. Place a piece of 
toast in the dripping-pan under each bird to catch the trails. 
Baste frequently. Roast from 20 to 25 minutes. When done, 
serve the pieces of toast with the birds upon them. Pour a little 
gravy over them, and send some to the table in a tureen. 




- ... _ ; .. - 

Fig. 39. 1. Eail; 2. Woodcock. 

To Broil Quail or Woodcock. 

After dressing, split down the back, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, and lay them on a gridiron, the inside down ; broil 
slowly at first ; serve with cream gravy. 

Roasted Quail. 

These are cooked like woodcock, without drawing them, 
and are served on toast in the same manner. 



52 



The Kitchen 



Ragout of Wild Duck. 

Ducks that have been dressed and left from the preceding 
day will answer for this purpose. Cut them into joints ; re- 
serve the legs, wings and breasts until wanted ; put the trim- 
mings into a stew-pan, with 2 onions and 1 pint of beef stock ; 
let them simmer i hour, and strain the gravy. Put an ounce 
of butter into a stew-pan ; when melted, 'dredge in a little flour 





Fig. 40. 1. Black, or Serf Duck; 2. Buff el-Headed Duck; 3. Female Duck; 
4. Canada Goose; 5. Tufted Duck; 6. Golden-Eyed Duck; 7. Shoveler. 

and pour in the gravy made from the bones, give it a boil, and 
strain again ; add 1 glass Port wine, juice of i a lemon, and 
a pinch of cayenne ; lay in the pieces of duck, and let the whole 
gradually warm through, but do not allow it to boil, as this 
will harden it. The gravy should not be too thick ; a little 
orange juice improves it. 



Game. 



Wild ducks are prepared for roasting the same as tame ones. 
To take away the fishy taste which wild fowl sometimes have, 
baste them for a few minutes with hot water, to which an 
onion and a little salt have been added. Then take away the 
pan, and baste with butter only. 




Fig. 41. 1. Long-Tailed Duck; 2. Female; 3. Summer Duck; 4. Green- Winged 
Teal; 5. Canvas-Back Duck; 6. Red Headed Duck; 7. Mallard. 

Fried Rabbit. 

Cut the rabbit into joints, and roll in flour ; have ready hot 
drippings or butter, and fry it a nice brown. Dredge a little 
flour into the pan, carefully add a little water to the gravy, and 
pour it around the pieces after they are laid on the platter. 

Boiled Rabbit. 

After it is skinned, let it lie fifteen minutes in water, to 
draw out the blood. Then put it into enough hot water to 
cover it, boil gently from £ to f of an hour, according to its 
size and age. Dish it, and serve either with onion, mushroom 
or parsley and butter sauce. 



OYSTERS. 



Stewed Oysters. 

Drain the liquor from the oysters, scald and strain it, to 
remove any pieces of shell and scum that may rise. To this 
liquor add to each quart of oysters, a pint each of milk and 
water, the amount of milk being a matter of taste. When 
scalded, season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg if the 
flavor is relished, i teacupf ul rolled cracker, and butter the size 
of an egg. Put in the oysters, and, when they begin to curl, 
which will be in 3 or 4 minutes, remove from the fire, and serve 
at once. If cooked too long, they become dark and tasteless. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

Butter a pudding- dish, roll crackers very fine ; put a layer 
of crackers, then a layer of oysters, season with salt and pep- 
per, put small bits of butter over the oysters, fill the dish nearly 
full, having crackers on top ; pour in sweet milk enough to 
soak the crackers ; bake nearly an hour. If too dry when 
baking, add a little more milk and butter. 

Oysters on the Shell. 

Wash the shells, and put them on hot coals or upon the top 
of a hot stove, or bake them in a hot oven ; open the shells 
with an oyster knife, taking care to lose none of the liquor, and 
serve quickly on hot plates, with toast. Oysters may be steamed 
in the shells, and are excellent, eaten in the same manner. 

Fried Oysters. 

Drain the oysters, and dry them by pressing between a soft 
cloth or napkin. Season with pepper and salt. Dip in well- 

(54) 



Oysters. 



55 



beaten egg, then in very fine cracker crumbs. If the oyster 
is not fully encrusted, repeat this process. Fry in plenty 
of hot lard, like doughnuts. Take up on unglazed paper to 
absorb the fat. Serve on a napkin, and garnish with parsley 
or coldslaw. 

Broiled Oysters. 

Select the large ones, used for frying, and first dip them in 
beaten egg, then in either cracker or bread crumbs, and cook 
upon a fine wire gridiron, over a quick fire. Toast should be 
made ready in advance, and a rich cream sauce poured over 
the whole. After pouring on the sauce, finely cut celery strewn 
over the top adds to their delicacy. 

Roasted Oysters, 

Take oysters in the shell, wash the shells clean, and lay 
them on hot coals ; when they are done they will begin to 
open. Remove the upper shell, and serve the oysters in the 
lower shell, with a little melted butter poured over each. 

Oyster Fritters. 

Chop a pint of oysters; make a batter of a pint of milk, a 
little salt and pepper, and flour enough to make a thin batter. 
Stir in the oysters. Fry in hot lard or butter. Drop them in 
from the spoon, and fry a delicate brown. 

Oyster Pie. 

Line a pudding-dish with puff paste, if not too rich. Cover 
with a plate the same size as the pudding dish, and on this 
place the upper crust. Put them into the oven to bake, and 
while they are there, make ready the filling, which is prepared 
as for stewed oysters, with a little more bread or cracker crumbs 
stirred in it. In 15 or 20 minutes the crusts should be done. 
Fill the oysters in the crust. Slip the baked upper crust on 



56 



The Kitchen. 



the top of the pie, and return it to the oven for 5 minutes. 
Serve at once. 

Oyster Dressing. 

For one chicken use 2 dozen or more oysters, chop very fine, 
season with cup butter, pepper and salt to taste ; mix with 
2 cups of bread or cracker crumbs, and 1 quart milk. Cook 
in a saucepan. If not moist enough, add some of the oyster 
liquor. 

Pickled Oysters. 

To 100 oysters take 1 pint vinegar, and i our'.ce each of 
whole pepper and cloves, and a little mace. Scald the oysters 
in the liquor, drain them ; boil the vinegar with the spices, and 
a part of the oyster liquor. Pour it over the oysters before they 
are quite cold. Let them stand a day or two before using. 

Clams, 

They may be roasted, stewed and fried the same as oysters. 
Care should be taken to have them as fresh as possible. 

Clam Chowder. 

The materials needed are clams, salt pork, onions, potatoes, 
sea-biscuit, plenty of seasoning and milk. First fry in the 
chowder kettle salt pork till nicely browned. In this fat, after 
removing the pork, fry the onions. Have the clams ready, and, 
when the onions are cooked, add water, and in alternate layers 
the sea biscuits, ctam liquor and clams, potatoes, fried pork 
chopped fine, and the seasoning of pepper and salt, and sweet 
herbs if liked. Boil all together till the potatoes are nearly 
done, when remove from the kettle to a tureen, add a quart 
of milk and a little thickening to the gravy; when scalded 
pour it over the contents of the tureen. Serve at once. 



CATSUPS. 



Tomato Catsup. 

Take 1 bushel fully ripe tomatoes ; cut out any imperfect 
parts, and the green portions ; put them in a porcelain kettle, 
adding just as little water as will keep them from burning. 
Peel and slice a half-dozen onions of medium size ; boil until 
very soft. Strain through a sieve, return to the kettle, add 2 
quarts good cider vinegar, 2 ounces each of ground allspice, 
black pepper and flour mustard, 1 ounce ground cloves, i 
ounce cayenne pepper, 2 pounds sugar. Mix all together well 
with H teacupf uls salt ; return to the kettle and boil 2 hours ; 
stir frequently to prevent scorching. Bottle and seal. 

Cold Catsup. 

Skin i a peck of tomatoes without scalding, chop fine, and 
drain in a colander. Cut 2 roots of horse-radish in small slips, 
and chop 2 stalks of celery and 3 red peppers. Mix all 
together with a quart of vinegar, a cup of nasturtiums, \ a cup 
each of salt and sugar, a tablespoonful each of ground cin- 
namon and cloves, 1 teaspoonful each of mace and black 
pepper, and a cup of mixed black and white mustard. 

Walnut or Butternut Catsup. 

Gather the nuts while still soft, so that they can be pierced 
with a pin. Pound them to a pulp, and let them lie a fort- 
night in salt water; then drain them, and pour a pint of boil- 
ing vinegar over the nuts, and strain it out. To each quart 
of this liquor add 3 tablespoonfuls of pepper, 1 of ginger, 2 
of cloves and 1 of nutmeg. Boil an hour after mixing the 
spices well. 

(57) 



SALADS. 



Salad Dressing. 

Materials : 1 cup milk, 1 of vinegar, 3 eggs, 1 tablespoon- 
ful each of sugar and olive oil or butter, i tablespoonf ul of salt 
and a scant tablespoonful of mustard. Stir the oil, sugar, salt 
and mustard in a bowl together until perfectly smooth ; then 
add the well-beaten eggs, stir all thoroughly, and add the vin- 
egar, and lastly milk. Put in a farina kettle, and let it boil 
together until it thickens like custard. 

Lobster Salad. 

Boil the lobster i an hour ; remove the shell, being careful 
to take out the vein in the back. Chop the meat,, or pick it 
fine. Arrange the lobster in the plate, as in Fig. 42. Make a 
good salad of celery, lettuce or endive, chopped red beets and 




Fig. 42. 



hard-boiled eggs. For dressing take 3 or 4 tablespoonfuls of 
oil, 2 of vinegar, 1 teaspoonful of made mustard, and the 
yolks of two hard-boiled eggs. Sometimes a very small quan- 
tity of anchovy sauce is added. Mix these ingredients well 
with the meat from the body of the lobster. Arrange it 

(58) 



Salads. 



59 



around the lobster, garnish with sliced beets, cucumbers, the 
yolks and whites of eggs, using taste in blending the colors. 

Celery Salad. 

One head of cabbage, 3 bunches of celery, chopped very 
fine. Take 1 teacupful of vinegar, lump of butter size of an 
egg, yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonful mustard, 1 of salt, pinch 
of cayenne pepper, 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. Mix these well ; 
put the mixture on the stove, and heat until it thickens, stirring 
all the time ; when cold, add two tablespoonfuls of rich, sweet 
cream. If not moist enough, add cold vinegar. 

Potato Salad. 

Boil the potatoes tender, and when cold cut them into little 
cubes, or slices. Lay loosely on the plate from which they are 
to be served. Chop a little onion very fine, and strew over 
the potato. Pour over it a nice salad dressing. 

Chicken Salad. 

Chop the white parts of 3 chickens, or pick them to pieces, 
as preferred; add twice the bulk of celery either chopped or 
cut small. Make a dressing of the yolks of 3 uncooked eggs, 
1 tablespoonful mustard, 3 tablespoonfuls sugar, 1 teaspoonful 
salt, a pinch of cayenne pepper, J- cupful vinegar, \ pint of 
olive oil and \ a lemon. Beat the yolks well and add mus- 
tard, sugar, etc., until smooth; then, by degrees, add the oil, 
vinegar and lemon juice. The dressing should be quite thick 
after the last oil is added. Put it on ice until wanted. 

Oyster Sauce (to serve with Fish, Boiled 
Poultry, etc.). 

Open 3 dozen oysters carefully and save their liquor. 
Strain it into a clean saucepan, put in the oysters, and let 
them just come to the boiling point. Take them out at once, 



60 



The Kitchen. 



strain the liquor again, and put enough butter with it mixed 
with milk to make 1 pint altogether. When this is ready 
and very smooth, put in the oysters, which should be bearded 
to be really nice. Keep it hot till wanted, but do not let it boil, 
or the oysters will immediately harden. Some may like a 
seasoning of cayenne or anchovy sauce. 

Butter-Maitre d'Hotel — Cold Sauce. 

Mix thoroughly-with a wooden spoon i pound of butter, 
2 dessert-spoonfuls of minced parsley, salt and pepper to taste, 
and the juice of one large lemon. This may be put under or 
over the fish it is to be served with. With 4 table -spoonfuls 
white or Bechamel sauce, 2 ounces white stock and 2 ounces of 
the above, simmered 1 minute together, a hot sauce is made. 

Celery Sauce for Boiled Turkey, Poultry, etc. 

Boil 6 heads of celery in salt and water until tender, and cut it 
into pieces 2 inches long, Put 1 pint of white stock into a 
stew-pan, 2 blades of mace and 1 small bunch of savory herbs, 
and let it simmer £ hour to extract their flavor. Then strain 
the liquor, add the celery and a thickening of butter and 
arrowroot ; just before serving add i pint of cream, boil it up, 
and squeeze in a little lemon juice. If necessary, add a 
seasoning of salt and white pepper. This may be made brown 
by using gravy instead of white stock, and flavoring it with 
mushroom catsup or Worcestershire sauce. 

Cream Sauce for Fish or White Dishes. 

Put 2 ounces of butter into a saucepan, dredge into it 1 tea- 
spoonful of flour, and keep shaking around till the butter is 
melted; add 1 pint of cream, salt and cayenne to taste, and 
stir till it boils. Let it just simmer for 5 minutes, when add 
either pounded mace or lemon juice to taste, to give it a flavor. 



YEAST AND BREAD. 



Potato Yeast. 

Take 2 quarts of water to 1 ounce of hops. Boil them 15 
minutes; add 1 quart of cold water, and let it boil for a few 
minutes; strain, and add -J- pound of flour, putting the latter into 
a basin, and pouring the water on slowly to prevent its getting 
lumpy; i pound of brown sugar, a handful of fine salt. Let 
it stand 3 days, stirring it occasionally. When it ferments 
well, add 6 potatoes, which have been boiled, mashed and run 
through a colander, making them as smooth as possible. This 
yeast will keep a long while, and has the advantage of not 
requiring any yeast to start it with. It rises so quickly that a 
less quantity of it must be put in than of ordinary yeast. 

Dried Yeast. 

Peel fi good-sized potatoes, and boil until tender. Have 
ready in a stone crock 3 pints of flour; while the potatoes are hot 
work them through a colander into the dry flour. Boil a large 
handful of hops 15 minutes in 3 pints of water; strain out the 
hops, add the water to the flour and potatoes, mix well, and 
when almost cold, add enough cold water to make it as thin as 
bread sponge. Have half a pint of dry yeast soaked soft, and 
stir it in. Let the yeast- rise, stirring it down several times, 
then add to it 3 quarts of sifted corn meal, mix thoroughly, 
roll, cut into cakes, and dry quickly. 

Bread. 

Add 1 quart of water to \ teacupful potato yeast, and as 
much flour as can be mixed in it with a spoon. Let it stand 
over night. In the morning add 1 pint milk, with enough flour 

(61) 



62 



The Kitchen. 



to make a soft dough. Let it remain until it is quite light, then 
knead thoroughly again, and make into loaves. Let it rise 
again ; bake in a steady but not too hot oven. 

Brown Breads 

Three cups of corn-meal, 2 cups of rye flour, 3 cups of sour 
milk, 1 cup of N. O. molasses, 1 cup of raisins, 2 even tea- 
spoonfuls salt, 3 even teaspoonfuls soda. Sift the meal and 
flour together ; mix the molasses, sour milk, salt and soda — the 
soda dissolved in a little warm water — and, while the mixture 
is effervescing, pour it into the flour, beating with a wooden 
spoon until smooth. Grease a pudding boiler, and pour in the 
batter, a little at a time — adding the raisins in layers — until the 
mould is filled to within about two inches of the top. Cover 
closely, place in a kettle of boiling water, and cook 4 or 5 hours. 

Breakfast Corn Bread. 

Two eggs, \ cupful each of sweet milk and sour, \ tea- 
spoonful each of salt and saleratus ; corn-meal enough to make 
a thin batter. Beat the eggs very light, add the salt and sweet 
milk ; stir saleratus into the sour milk, and add it to the rest ; 
put in the corn-meal a little at a time. The batter should be 
quite as thin as for batter cakes. Beat it hard for a few min- 
utes, then pour into a well-buttered tin, and bake in a quick 
oven. When done, remove from the pan, cut in squares, 
and serve. 

Milk Sponge Bread. 

Put into a pitcher or jar a pint of boiling water, a tea- 
spoonful of sugar, i teaspoonful each of soda and salt. When 
cool enough to bear your hand in it, add flour to make a thick 
batter. Beat it well, and put the vessel in water as hot as can 
be used without scalding the mixture. Keep up a uniform 
temperature till the " rising " or ''emptyings " are light. If set 



Yeast and Bread. 



63 



in the morning early, they will doubtless be ready before noon 
to make a sponge. Add a quart of warm milk, and the flour 
as for other bread. When this sponge is very light, make into 
loaves, and let them rise again, but care should be taken not to 
let them rise too long, or the bread will be dry and tasteless. 

Rye Bread. 

Put 2 quarts of rye flour into a stone jar ; stir into it 1 cup 
of yeast, 2 teaspoonf uls of salt, and enough water to moisten 
well. Let it rise over night in a warm place. In the morning 
stir it down well ; do not add more flour, but put into well- 
buttered pans ; as soon as light, bake in a slow oven. 

Graham Bread. 

To 1 pint of the bread sponge take 1 pint of milk (water 
will do), add a little salt, soda and sugar. Stir in sufficient 
graham flour to make batter just stiff enough to drop from the 
spoon. Fill a pint can a little over half full, let it rise until 
three-fourths full, then place in a kettle of boiling water and 
let it steam about an hour, according to size of can, etc. 

Excellent Corn Bread. 

To 3 cups corn -meal — the yellow is preferable — take 3£ 
cups wheat flour, 1 cup molasses, 1 quart thick milk, 1 tea- 
spoonful soda, and 2 teaspoonf uls of salt. Mix quickly, pour 
into a basin, and steam 2 hours ; then bake i to f of an hour, 

Rusk. 

Take 4 cups bread dough, 1 cup sugar, i cup butter, 3 eggs. 
"Work these well into the dough, adding flour as needed ; let 
it rise ; mould into biscuits, and let them rise again. Currants 
and spices may be added if desired. Brush the top with a 
little sweetened milk, and bake to a delicate brown. 



BREAKFAST ROLLS, ETC. 



Tea Rolls, 

Two quarts of flour, 1 quart of sweet milk, f of a cup of 
butter, and a cake of compressed yeast. Make a soft batter at 
night, if the rolls are desired hot for breakfast, using only half 
of the flour. The butter can either be rubbed into the flour, or 
dissolved in the tepid milk. Early in the morning add the other 
half of the flour, and let the sponge rise again. Then make into 
long, narrow rolls for baking, or roll and cut with a large bis- 
cuit cutter, and tuck up like French breakfast rolls. Let them 
rise for a few minutes, and bake in a quick oven. 

French Rolls. 

One pint of milk, 1 small cup of home-made yeast (you can 
try the baker's), flour enough to make a stiff batter, raise over 
night ; in the morning add 1 egg, 1 tablespoonf ul of butter, and 
flour enough to make it stiff to roll. Mix it well, and let it rise; 
then knead it again (to make it fine and white), roll out, cut 
with a round tin, and fold over ; put them in a pan and cover 
very close. Set them in a warm place until they are very light, 
bake quickly, and you will have delicious rolls. 

Maryland Biscuit. 

Rub into 2 quarts of flour 1 small teacupful lard and the 
usual quantity of salt. Mix it up with just enough water to 
make a stiff dough, and beat from half an hour to an hour. It 
should be worked until the blisters are constantly snapping and 
the dough is waxy , After the dough is once mixed, there should 
be no more flour worked in. When it is all right, if you break 
off a piece quickly it snaps off short, and, in cutting a piece off 

(64) 



Breakfast Rolls, etc. 



65 



with a sharp knife, the holes or pores where you have cut it 
are small, and of an even size. Now break off the dough 
in small pieces, and work each piece into a nice biscuit 
shape, and press it with the lower part of the thumb, where 
it joins the hand, to make the indentation ; prick, and bake 
quickly in a hot oven. The biscuit should be a light brown 
in the centre of the top and on the bottom, but not all over, 
and not hard. 

Vienna Rolls. 

One quart flour, i teaspoonful salt, 2 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder, 1 tablespoonful lard, 1 pint milk. Sift together flour, 
salt and baking powder ; rub in the lard cold ; add the milk, 
and mix into a smooth dough in the bowl, easy to be handled. 
Flour the board, then roll to the thickness of i an inch, cut 
it out with a large round cutter, fold one half over on the other 
by doubling it, lay them on a greased baking sheet without 
touching, wash them over with a little milk, to glaze them, and 
bake in a hot oven 15 minutes. 

Rye Breakfast Cakes. 

Take 2 cupfuls of rye-meal, 1 cupful of flour, 2 well-beaten 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, 1 pint of sweet milk, 
i tablespoonful of salt. Stir together, adding the whites of the 
eggs last. Butter heavy ironstone china teacups, fill each half 
full of batter, set them in a pan, bake for 30 minutes. 

Buckwheat Cakes. 

Take 1 pint each of milk and water, i cake of compressed 
yeast, or 1 cup of potato or hop yeast, and sufficient buckwheat 
flour to make a smooth batter. Let it rise, and, just before 
baking, add a couple of tablespoonf uls of molasses or sugar, to 
brown them. Many use water alone instead of half milk. 
5 



66 



The Kitchek, 



Graham Biscuits* 

Take 3 cups graham flour, 1 cup wheat flour ; rub into it 2 
tablespoonfuls butter, -j- cup sugar, a beaten egg. Add 2 tea- 
spoonfuls baking powder, a little salt, and enough milk to 
make a soft dough. Roll thin, cut out, and bake quickly. 

Raised Muffins. 

Make a batter at night with 1 quart of sweet milk, % tea- 
cupful of yeast, 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and 2 of butter or 
lard, 1 teaspoonful of salt, with enough flour to make it mod- 
el ^tely thick, but so that it will pour well. Let it stand in 
a warm, not hot, place over night. In the morning, stir in 2 
well-beaten eggs, and bake in muffin-rings in a quick oven. 

Muffins without Yeast. 

Take 1 pint of sweet milk, 2 eggs, 1 large tablespoonful of 
butter, 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, well mixed and sifted 
with the flour, 1 teaspoonful of salt, and flour to make the bat- 
ter stiff enough to drop from the spoon into the muffin-rings. 

Graham Muffins. 

One egg, 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 1 quart of graham flour, 
2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, \ teaspoonful of salt, 2 table- 
spoonfuls of butter, and milk enough to make a soft batter. 

Waffles. 

A quart of sweet milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter, 3 beaten 
eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, a teaspoonful of salt, 
and as much sugar as is liked by the eaters. With the iron 
heated up while beating the eggs and mixing, one can have the 
waffles on the table in five or six minutes from beginning to 
prepare them. Only skill enough is needed to cook them 
quickly, yet just enough, without scorching. 



Breakfast Rolls, etc. 



67 



Raised Waffles. 

One quart of milk slightly warmed, 5 cups of flour, 3 eggs 
well beaten, ■§- of a cup of home-made yeast, or half a penny's 
worth of baker's, and i a teaspoonful of salt. Set as sponge 
over night. In the morning add 2 tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter. Have the waffle-irons very hot and well greased. 

Strawberry Shortcake. 

Into 1 cupful of sour cream stir i teaspoonful of soda, add 
1 tablespoonful of melted butter, and flour enough to make a 
stiff dough. Roll it out to fit in A arge pie-pan, and bake in a 
quick oven. Split open, butter well, and spread a pint of sug- 
ared berries between the layers, and as many more over the 
top. 

Make the dough as for soda biscuits ; bake in deep jelly-pans 
or pie-tins ; split the cakes, and spread with the sugared berries. 
Raspberries, peaches, etc., are nice to use in the same way. 

Cream Fritters. 

One pint sweet cream, 1 pint milk, li pints flour, into whicn 
mix 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful salt, 4 eggs, 
the yolks and whites beaten separately. Fry in hot fat, like 
doughnuts, except that these are dropped in from the spoon. 

Hominy Fritters. 

Two cups cold boiled hominy, 2 eggs, 1 cup milk, 1 cup 
flour, a pinch of salt, i teaspoonful baking powder. Drop 
from a spoon into hot lard, and fry brown. 

Sally Lunn. 

Three pints sifted flour, 1 pint milk, 8 eggs, i cup butter, 
1 cup sugar, 1 gill yeast, or 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 1 
teaspoonful salt. If yeast is used, it will require 3 or 4 hours 
to rise. Bake in a loaf. 



PUDDINGS. 



To insure success, all the ingredients should be good — the 
milk and eggs fresh, and the fruits of excellent quality. 

Cold Apple Pudding. 

Peel and core 10 or 12 good baking apples, slice them, and 
put i pound of sugar, an ounce of butter, a sprinkling of nut- 
meg and grated lemon peel, into a saucepan with them, and 




Fig. 43. 



cook until soft ; set it by to cool. Line a mould with good 
pudding paste, fill in the apples, cover with paste, tie in a 
cloth, and boil li hours. Turn it out, and ornament with a 
flower on the top, as seen in Fig. 43. 

Apple Sago Pudding. 

Peel i a dozen sour apples, and, if perfect, simply remove 
jte cores ; if not, cut in halves and place together again. Put 
he apples in a buttered pudding dish, and sprinkle sugar over 

(68) 



Puddings. 



69 



them. Cover the dish with a plate, set in the oven, and bake 
until the apples are well done. While they are baking, boil 1 
cup of sago in 2 cups of water, adding a little salt. When the 
sago turns to a transparent jelly, it is done. Remove from the 
stove, stir in 2 to 4 tablespoonfuls of sugar, according to the 
sourness of the apples, and pour the sago into the pudding 
dish over the apples. Return to the oven, and let it remain 
there until it is browned on top. 

Apple Pudding. 

Pare and core 8 or 9 juicy apples. Put them into a pud- 
ding dish, half filled with water ; cover closely, and bake until 
tender. Drain off the water, fill each apple with jelly, and 
season with any spice preferred. Let them stand until cool. 
Scald 1 pint of milk, into which stir \ pound of macaroons, 
pounded fine, a little salt, a tablespoonful of corn starch, 3 table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Boil all together 1 or 2 minutes, and when 
cool add the whites of 3 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Pour 
over the apples, and bake 20 or 30 minutes. Eat with cream. 

Tapioca and Fruit Pudding. 

To 3 pints of cold water add 1 teacupful of tapioca ; put 
on the back of the stove, where it will be warm, but not get 
hot, and let it remain until soft. It will take from li to 2 
hours. Have ready, peeled and sliced, 12 good-sized sour ap- 
ples, and add them to the tapioca, with a heaping teacupful of 
sugar. Bake until the apples are thoroughly cooked, and the 
tapioca becomes like jelly. It is nicer when allowed to cool 
before serving, and should be eaten with cream and sugar. 

Peach Batter Pudding. 

For a quart of peeled and stoned peaches, cut in halves, 
take 1 tablespoonful of butter, 1 teaspoonful baking powder, 
1 quart sweet milk, 3 eggs, 2 cups of flour, and £ teaspoonful 



70 



The Kitchen. 



of salt. Lay the peaches in a well-buttered earthen baking 
dish. Sift the flour ; stir into it (dry) the salt and baking 
powder, then rub in the butter until perfectly fine. Beat the 
eggs, and add them and the milk together, pouring in slowly, 
and stirring all the time, until the batter is smooth, then pour 
it over the peaches. Bake about i an hour. Serve warm with 
butter and sugar, or with sweetened cream. 

Sunderland Pudding. 

Take 6 eggs, 4 tablespoonfuls flour, 1 pint sweet milk, and 
a little salt. Beat the yolks well, and mix smoothly with the 
flour ; then add the milk and the whites beaten to a stiff froth. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

Rice Pudding. 

To 1 cupful of boiled rice add 4 eggs, 1 cupful each of sugar 
and raisins, a little nutmeg, and 1£ pints of milk. Bake until 
the milk is like custard, and brown on top. 

Amber Pudding. 

Mix together \ pound of sugar and the same each of but- 
ter and bread crumbs. Add 3 eggs, well beaten, and 3 table- 
spoonfuls orange marmalade. Mix the butter and sugar to- 
gether, then the eggs and bread crumbs, and lastly the marma- 
lade. Put the whole in a mould, cover closely, and steam 2 
hours. 

Steamed Suet Pudding. 

Two cups sweet milk, 1 cup molasses, 3 cups flour, one cup 
each of raisins, currants and suet, one teaspoonful soda. Put 
in a 2 quart basin, and steam 2 hours. 

Delmonico Pudding. 

A quart of milk, 3 tablespoonfuls corn starch. Mix the 
starch with cold water, and stir into the boiling milk. Mix 6 



Puddings. 



71 



tablespoonfuls of white sugar with the yolks of 5 eggs, and 
pour into the starch. Put into a pudding dish, and bake. Beat 
the whites of 5 eggs with 6 tablespoonfuls of sugar, and flavor 
with vanilla ; drop with a spoon on the pudding, and brown 
slightly in the oven. 

Snow Pudding. 

One-half package of Coxe's gelatine, pour over it a cup of 
cold water, and add li cups of sugar ; when soft, add 1 cup of 
boiling water, juice of 1 lemon, and the whites of 4 well-beaten 
eggs ; beat all together until very light. Put in a glass dish, 
'and pour over it custard made as follows : 1 pint milk, yolks 
of 4 eggs, and grated rind of 1 lemon ; boil. Splendid. 

Baked Indian Pudding. 

Scald 1 quart of m'lk. Stir into a little cold milk 1 teacup- 
ful Indian meal (the yellow is preferable), and add to the boil- 
ing milk, stirring until it thickens, but no longer, or it will not 
bake well. When nearly cold, add 2 well-beaten eggs, a pinch 
of salt, a pint of cold milk ; sweeten with half sugar and half 
molasses, and flavor with nutmeg. Bake about 1 hour, or 
until water bubbles from the top. It is best served hot. 

Frosted Lemon Pudding. 

Take a pint of bread or cake crumbs, 1 quart of milk, the 
juice and grated peel of a lemon, the yolks of 3 eggs, and 
sweeten to the taste. When baked, cover over with jelly, make 
a frosting of the whites of the eggs and sugar, pour over the 
top, and set in the oven a few minutes to brown. 

The Queen of Puddings. 

One and one-half cup white sugar ; 2 cups fine dry bread 
crumbs ; 5 eggs ; 1 tablespoonful of butter ; vanilla, rose-water 
or lemon seasoning ; 1 quart fresh, rich milk, and i a cup 
jelly or jam. Rub the butter into a cup of sugar ; beat the 



72 



The Kitchen. 



yolks very light, and stir these together to a cream. The bread 
crumbs soaked in milk come next, then the seasoning. Bake 
in a buttered pudding-dish — a large one, and but two-thirds 
full — until the custard is "set." Draw to the mouth of the 
oven, spread over with jam or other nice fruit conserve. Cover 
this with a meringue made of the whipped whites and I a cup 
of sugar. Shut the oven, and bake until the meringue begins 
to color. Eat cold, with cream. In strawberry season, sub- 
stitute fresh fruit for preserves. It is then delicious. 

Chocolate Pudding. 

Pour 1 pint of boiling milk over 4 ounces of grated choco- 
late ; dissolve 3 tablespoonfuls of cornstarch in 1 pint of milk, 
add 3 beaten eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls of sugar, 1 teaspoonful of 
vanilla extract. Mix, and pour into the milk and chocolate. 
Let it boil 1 minute, stirring briskly ; pour out into cups or 
moulds, and set away in a cold place until wanted. 

John Bull's Own Plum Pudding. 

One-half pound bread crumbs, i pound flour, 1 pound each 
of currants, seedless raisins, moist sugar, mixed candied peel, 
1 teaspoonful salt, 1 of mixed spices, 8 eggs, i pint brandy. 
Mix all thoroughly, after chopping the suet, and seeding, stem- 
ming and washing the fruit. Add the eggs, and lastly the 
brandy, after beating for 25 minutes ; butter a mould and nil 
it; scald a clean cloth and flour it ; put the pudding in, tie it 
down, and boil 13 hours. 

Baked Plum Pudding. 

Two pounds of flour, 1 pound each of raisins, currants 
and suet, 2 eggs, 1 pint milk, a few slices of candied peel. 
Chop the suet finely, mix with it the flour, currants, raisins, 
\ nutmeg and candied peel. Moisten with the well-beaten 
eggs, and add sufficient milk to make the pudding cf 



Puddings. 



73 



consistency of any thick batter. Put it in a buttered dish, 
and bake in a good oven from 2 i to 21 hours. Half the 
quantity is enough for an ordinary-sized family. 

A Simple Bread Pudding. 

Pour 1 quart boiling milk into a dish filled with bread 
crumbs. Stir in 2 beaten eggs and dust the top over with 
cinnamon. Bake 20 minutes. Serve with sugar and cream. 

Aunt Helen's Country Pudding. 

Place a layer of stale bread rolled fine, in the bottom of 
a pudding dish, then a layer of any kind of fruit ; sprinkle on 
a little sugar, then another layer of bread crumbs and of 
fruit; and so on until the dish is full, the top layer being 
crumbs. Make a custard as for pies, add a pint of milk, and 
mix. Pour it over the top of the pudding, and bake until the 
fruit is cooked. 

Apple Dumplings. 

Pare and core medium-sized juicy, tart apples. Make a 
dough as for soda biscuit, and fold around each apple. Place 
in a steamer over a kettle of boiling water. Steam till the 
apples are soft. Eat with sweetened cream, or butter and 
sugar creamed and flavored with nutmeg. They may be baked 
instead of steamed. 

Rice Pudding without Eggs. 

Two quarts of milk, £ teacupful of rice, a little less than a 
teacupful of sugar, the same quantity of raisins, a teaspoonful 
of cinnamon or allspice ; wash the rice and put it with the rest 
of the ingredients into the milk. Bake rather slowly from 2 
to 3 hours ; stir two or three times the first hour of baking. If 
properly done, this pudding is delicious. 



SAUCES. 



Pudding Sauce. 

Rub 1 cup sugar and i cup butter to a cream ; add the 
beaten white of an egg, i teaspoonful extract of lemon or rose, 
and 1 cup boiling water, in which has been stirred 1 teaspoon- 
ful corn starch. 

Wine Sauce. 

The yolks of 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful flour, 2 tablespoonfuls 
each of butter and sugar, a pinch of salt, i pint of sherry or 
Madeira, Put the butter and flour into a saucepan, and stir 
over the fire until it thickens, then mix the other ingredients, 
adding the wine last. Separate the yolks from the whites of 
the 4 eggs, beat up the former, and stir them briskly to the 
sauce. Let it remain over the fire until it is on the point of 
simmering, but do not let it boil, or it will curdle. This makes 
a delicious sauce for plum, suet and bread puddings. 

Lemon Sauce. 

The rind and juice of 1 lemon, 1 tablespoonful each of 
flour and butter, 1 large wineglassful each of sherry and water, 
sugar to taste, the yolks of 4 eggs. Prepared like the above, 
except that the rind of the lemon is rubbed on the sugar, and 
the juice is strained into the sauce. 

Strawberry Sauce. 

Rub 1 cup of sugar and 1 cup butter to a cream ; add the 
beaten white of an egg and 1 cup crushed strawberries. 

Raspberry Sauce. 

This sauce is made the same as the above, raspberries being 
used instead of strawberries. 



DISHES FOR DESSERT. 



Spanish Cream. 

Put half a box of gelatine in a quart of sweet milk, and let 
it scald until the gelatine is entirely melted ; then add the yolks 
of 4 eggs, previously well beaten with a cup of sugar ; when 
scalding, but not boiling, stir in the whites of the eggs after beat- 
ing to a stiff froth. Season as desired. Strain into moulds. 

Apples and Rice. 

Peel and core as many nice apples as are needed to arrange 
in a dish like Fig. 44. Boil them soft in a light syrup. Cook 
i pound of rice in milk, with a spoonful of sugar and a pinch 




Fig. 44. 



of salt. Put some of the rice in the bottom of the dish, 
arrange the apples in a pyramid with the rice between, and 
ornament with real or artificial leaves. 

Orange Charlotte. 

For 2 moulds of medium size soak \ box gelatine in \ cup of 
water for 2 hours. Add 1-J cups boiling water, and strain. 
Then add 2 cups sugar, 1 cup of orange juice and pulp, and 

(75) 



76 The Kitchen. 

the juice of 1 lemon. Stir until the mixture begins to cool, or 
about 5 minutes; then add the whites of 6 eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth. Beat the whole until so stiff that it will only just pour 
into moulds lined with sections of orange. Set away to cool. 

Whipped Cream, 

To every pint of cream allow 3 ounces of pounded sugar, 
1 glass of sherry or any kind of sweet wiue, the rind of i 
a lemon, the white of 1 egg. Rub the sugar on the lemon rind, 
and pound it till quite fine ; beat up the white of the egg to a 
stiff froth ; put the cream into a large bowl with the sugar, 
wine and beaten egg, and whip it to a froth. As fast as the 
froth rises, take it off with a skimmer and put it on a sieve to 
drain, in a cool place. The cream will be firmer if made the 
day before it is wanted. It should be whipped in a cool place, 
and in summer over ice, if it is obtainable. 

Omelette Soufflee. 

Four eggs ; beat the whites and yolks separately. To the 
yolks add 3 tablespoonfuls powdered sugar and 1 teaspoonful 
extract of vanilla, Stir the eggs and sugar into the whites 
very gently. Drop by the spoonful into buttered pans, and 
bake in a moderate oven. They should be eaten as soon as 
done, or they will fall. 

Charlotte Russe. 

Take 18 ladies' fingers, as they are sometimes called; brush 
the edges of them with the white of an egg, and line the bottom 
of a plain round mould, placing them like a star or rosette. 
Stand them upright around the edge, placing them so closely 
that the white of the egg may connect them firmly, arid place 
this case in the oven for about 5 minutes to dry the egg. 
"Whisk f of a pint of cream to a stiff froth, add to it 1 table- 
spoonful powdered sugar, i ounce melted isinglass or gelatine, 



Dishes for Dessert. 



77 



i teaspoonful vanilla. Fill the mould with it, and cover the 
top with a slice of sponge cake cut in the shape of the mould. 
Place it on ice, and let it remain until ready for the table ; 
then turn it on a dish, remove the mould, and serve. 

Iced Oranges. 

Peel a few oranges carefully, and pull them apart into thin 
portions. Whip the white of an egg with a wineglassful of 
water, and add a dessert spoonful of powdered sugar. Mix 




Fig. 45. 



all thoroughly together, and strain through a sieve into a flat 
vessel. Dip the fruit, with the white pith removed, into this 
mixture, roll carefully into sifted white sugar, and then place 
in rows to dry. Arrange as shown in Fig. 45. 

A Good Dessert. 

Of raspberries may be made of 1 large teacupful of cracker 
crumbs, 1 quart milk, the yolks of 3 eggs, 1 whole egg, and £ 
cup of sugar. Flavor with vanilla, adding a little pinch of 
salt. Bake in a moderate oven. When done, spread over the 
top, while hot, a pint of well-sugared raspberries. Then beat 
the whites of the 3 eggs very stiff, with 2 tablespoonf uls sugar, 
a little lemon extract, or whatever one prefers. Spread this 
over the berries, and bake a light brown. 



PIES, TARTS, ETC. 



In making pastry, always sift the flour. Rub the butter or 
lard into it before adding the water, which should be as cold as 
possible. If lard is used, add salt ; stir quickly. Many prefer 
cutting it with a knife instead of rubbing it in with the hands. 

A Plain Pie Crust, 

For two pies, 1 cup of lard, or lard and butter together, 
i cup water, 3 cups flour, 1 teaspoonful salt. 

Apple Pie. 

Fill the pie crust with some juicy apples, pared and sliced 
thin. To each pie take 1 small cup sugar ; butter, the size of 
a walnut, 1 teaspoonful flour, i of a grated nutmeg ; rub well 
together, strew the seasoning over the apples, and add 2-. or 3 
tablespoonfuls water, according to the juiciness of the apples. 
Pinch the edges of the upper crust close, and bake at once. 

Lemon Cream Pie. 

One teacup powdered sugar, 1 tablespoonful butter, 1 egg, 
juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 teacup boiling water, 1 
tablespoonful corn starch dissolved in cold water ; stir the corn 
starch into the hot water ; add the butter and sugar, and when 
cold, the lemon and egg. Bake in open tart. 

Lemon Pie. 

Six eggs (less 2 whites), 2 cups of white sagar, a little salt, 1 
cup of sweet milk, 2 tablespoonfuls of corn starch dissolved in 
the milk, 2 large lemons, juice and rind ; bake slowly until set. 
Meringue for the top ; whites of 2 eggs beaten with 6 tablespoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar ; bake to a light brown. 

(78) 



Pies, Tarts, etc. 



79 



Squash Pie. 

To 1 quart of boiled milk, take 1 pint of strained squash, 
2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, 1 teaspoonful salt, a few drops lemon ex- 
tract or vanilla, i teaspoonful each of ginger, cinnamon and 
nutmeg. Bake with one crust in rather deep plates. 

Pumpkin Pie. 

Stew the pumpkin with just enough water to prevent burn- 
ing. When soft, rub through a colander, and to each large 
teacupful add 1 pint milk or cream, 2 eggs, 1 cup sugar and 
flavoring to taste. 

Apple Custard Pie. 

Stew sour apples, rub them through a colander, add 3 well- 
beaten eggs, 1 cup each of butter and flour. Flavor with nut- 
meg. The above amount of seasoning will make 3 pies, and 
for each, 1 cup of sauce is needed. 

Peach Custard Pie. 

Use 1 crust ; peel peaches and halve them, and turn the 
hollow side upward ; sweeten as you would a peach pie ; take 
1 egg, a pinch of salt, 1 tablespoonf ul of sugar ; beat ; add milk 
enough to cover the peaches ; bake. Eat when partly cool. 

Potato Pie. 

For 2 pies, boil 1 quart of sweet milk, and then stir into it 
1 cup of grated potato. When cool,^add 3 well-beaten eggs ; 
sugar and nutmeg to taste. Bake with one crust. Eat the 
day it is baked. 

Orange Pie. 

Take 4 good-sized oranges, peel, seed, and cut in thin, 
small pieces. Strew 1 cup sugar over them, and let them 
stand. Into 1 quart of nearly boiling milk stir li tablespoon- 
fuls corn starch, and the yolks of 3 eggs. When this is done, 



80 



The Kitchen. 



mix the oranges with it, and put it in a lower crust already 
baked. Make a meringue of the whites of the eggs and i 
cup sugar, spread it on the top, and brown in the oven. 

Cocoanut Pie. 

One cupful grated cocoanut, 1 cup sugar, 1 quart milk, 

1 tablespoonful butter, 3 eggs. Flavor with nutmeg. Bake 
in a deep pie-plate. 

Mince Pie. 

To 3 lbs. finely chopped beef add 6 lbs. apples, 1 lb. suet, 

2 lbs. raisins, 2 lbs. currants, 1 lb. citron, 2 ozs. candied lemon, 
1 oz. mace, 1 oz. cinnamon, 1 oz. nutmeg, 1 lb. sugar, 1 pint 
molasses or syrup, and 1 quart cider. Seed the raisins, and 
chop half of them ; chop the apples, thoroughly wash the cur- 
rants, and slice the citron very thin. Mix well, put over the 
fire, cook slowly till the apples are done. If not sweet as liked, 
add more sugar ; if too stiff, increase the amount of cider. 

Medium Puff Paste. 

To every pound of flour take 8 ounces butter, 4 ounces 
lard, and not quite -J pint water. Mix the flour to a smooth 
paste with the water, then roll it out 3 times ; the first time, 
covering the paste with butter ; the second, with lard ; and 
the third, with butter ; and it will be ready for use. 

French Puff Paste. 

Take equal quantities of flour and butter, say 1 pound of 
each, I saltspoonful of salt, the yolks of 2 eggs, rather more 
than i pint of water. Sift the flour. Press all the water from 
the butter. Put the flour on the pasteboard, work lightly irrto 
it 2 ounces of the butter; then make a hole in the centre, and 
into it put the yolks of 2 eggs, the salt, and about i pint of 
water; knead quickly, and, when smooth, roll it out into a 
square J inch thick. Put the butter in a ball on the paste, and 



Pies, Tarts, etc. 



81 



fold the paste securely over it. Roll it lightly with the rolling- 
pin, but not thin enough to allow the butter to break through. 
Keep the board well dredged. This rolling gives it the first 
- turn ; now fold the paste in three and roll it again. If the 
weather is warm, cool it between each rolling. Continue this 
process until it has had six turnings in all. If properly made 
and baked, this crust should rise in the oven 5 or 6 inches. The 
butter must be kept cool, or the paste will not answer at all. 

Helen's Tart Shells. 

Take £ of a cupful of lard, 1 tablespoonful of white sugar, 
5 tablespoonf uls cold water, and the white of an egg well beaten. 
Mould like pie-crust, cut with tart-shell cutter, and bake. 

Apple Tarts. 

Cook soft 10 or 12 tart apples, rub them through a colander, 
add 3 well-beaten eggs, grated juice and rind of 1 or 2 lemons, 
butter the size of an egg, 1^ cups sugar. Mix well. Line tart 
pans with puff paste, and fill with the sauce. Bake quickly. 

German Puffs. 

Take i pint of new milk, 2 ounces of flour, 2 eggs, 2 ounces 
melted butter, a little salt and butter. Beat the eggs well, then 
mix all the ingredients together, and put into little cups half 
full for baking. Bake 15 minutes in a hot oven. 

Ginger Cream. 

Slice finely 3 ounces preserved ginger, put it into a basin 
with 2 dessert spoonfuls of syrup, the well-beaten yolks of 4 
eggs, and 1 pint cream. Mix these ingredients well together, and 
stir them over the fire for about 10 minutes, or until the mix- 
ture thickens; then take it off the fire, whisk till nearly cold, 
sweeten to taste, add 1 ounce gelatine, which should be melted 
and strained, and serve the cream in a glass dish. 
6 



CAKES. 



In these, as in bread and pastry, good flour is requisite as 
well as good butter. Indeed, all the materials should be first- 
class. Always sift the baking powder with the flour, and rub 
the butter and sugar to a cream, adding the well-beaten yolks 
of the eggs to them, then the milk and flour by degrees, and 
lastly the whites beaten to a stiff froth. After these are added 
it should be beaten as little as possible. 

Cookies. 

One cup sugar, f- cup butter, 4 cups flour, i cup sour milk, 
and a teaspoonful each of soda, baking powder and caraway 
seed. 

One cup sugar, i cup butter, 2 eggs, 3 tablespoonfuls sweet 
milk and 1 heaping teaspoonful baking powder. Flavor with 
nutmeg. Use flour sufficient to make a soft dough. Mix 
expeditiously, roll thin, and bake in a quick oven. 

Cocoanut Cookies. 

One cup grated cocoanut, 1| cups sugar, | cup butter, 
i cup milk, 2 eggs, 1 large teaspoonful baking powder, i tea- 
spoonful extract of vanilla, and flour enough to roll out. 

Ginger Snaps* 

Two cups molasses, 1 cup lard or butter, 2 teaspoonfuls 
soda dissolved in 2 tablespoonfuls hot water, and 1 teaspoonful 
each of ginger and cinnamon. Mix as soft as can be rolled, 
and bake in a hot oven. 

Two cups molasses, 2 cups brown sugar, 1 cup butter 
and lard together, 4 cups flour, 2 tablespoonfuls ginger, 1 

(82) 



Cakes. 



83 



tablespoonful each of cloves, cinnamon and allspice, i a 
nutmeg, and 1 teaspoonful soda dissolved in hot water. Do not 
crowd them in the pans, and bake in a moderate oven. 

Ginger Cookies, 

One cup brown sugar, 1 cup molasses, 1 cup lard, 1 cup 
hot water, 1 teaspoonful soda, 1 teaspoonful ginger, and £ tea- 
spoonful powdered alum put in last. Mix as soft as can be 
rolled, and bake in a quick oven. 

Vanilla Cookies, 

One cup sugar, f cup butter, 2 eggs, 3 teaspoonfuls baking 
powder and 1 of vanilla, and 1 tablespoonful milk ; add flour 
enough to roll out. 

Soft Molasses Cake. 

One cup butter, 1 pint molasses, 1 pint flour, i pint milk, 2 
eggs, 1 tablespoonful ginger, 2 teaspoonfuls soda; flour enough 
to make not quite as stiff as cup cake. Bake in moderate oven. 

Sponge Cake. 

Pour 1 cup boiling water over 2 cups sugar; separate the 
yolks and whites of 4 eggs and beat both well, the whites to a 
stiff froth; add the yolks to the sugar and hot water, beating 
quickly, then 2 cups flour, in which H teaspoonfuls baking 
powder have been sifted; add a small pinch of salt and 1 tea- 
spoonful lemon extract. Lastly, add the whites of the eggs, 
mixing as lightly as possible ; bake in a quick oven. 

Angels 9 Food. 

This is a very delicate cake, every condition of which must 
be strictly observed, or it will prove a failure. Take li tum- 
blers pulverized sugar, or the very fine granulated, 1 tumbler 
flour, whites of 10 eggs, 1 teaspoonful cream tartar, and 1 tea- 



84 



The Kitchen. 



spoonful extract of lemon or vanilla. Beat the whites to a 
stiff froth ; then sift sugar, flour and cream of tartar together, 
four times, so as to make it extremely light. Stir in quickly 
the whites, and with as little beating as possible. Put into an 
unbuttered tin — one with a pipe in the centre is preferable — 
and bake 40 minutes in a slow oven. Turn upside down to 
cool, but put something under the edges to prevent its lying 
on a flat surface, or it will be apt to become heavy. 

White Sponge Cake. 

One and a half tumblerfuls granulated sugar, 1 tumblerful 
flour, the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a froth, 1 teaspoonful 
each of cream tartar and vanilla extract. Sift the flour three 
or four times before measuring it. Bake quickly. 

Delicate Cake. 

One cup butter, 2 cups sugar, -J cup sweet milk, 4 cups flour, 
or enough to make a moderately stiff batter, 2 teaspoonfuls 
baking powder, and whites of 7 eggs beaten to a froth. Flavor 
with lemon, rose or almond. Bake in shallow pans. 

Gold Cake. 

One and one-half cups sugar, i cup butter, 1 cup sweet 
milk, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 3 cups flour, yolks of 6 
eggs. Flavor with nutmeg. 

Silver Cake. 

One and one-half cups sugar, $ cup butter, 1 cup sweet 
milk, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 3 cups flour, whites of 6 
eggs beaten to a froth. Flavor with bitter almond. 

Macaroons. 

One-half pound sugar, i pound shelled almonds, and the 
whites of 2 eggs. Put the almonds into hot water until the 



Cakes. 



85 



skins slip off easily ; then dry, and beat or pound them fine in * 
a mortar, adding a little rose water to moisten them ; then add 
the sugar. Beat the whites to a very stiff froth, and add them 
to the above. With a little flour on the hands, mould them 
into little cakes. Bake in a moderately hot oven. 

Soft Gingerbread. 

One cup molasses, i cup butter, 1 cup boiling water poured 
on the butter and molasses, 2 cups flour, 1 teaspoonful soda, 
i teaspoonful ginger, a small pinch of cloves and 1 egg. 

Corn Starch Cake. 

One cup butter, 2 cups sugar, 2 cups flour, 1 cup corn starch, 
1 cup milk, whites of 7 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 
Flavor with rose or almond. 

Citron Cake. 

One cup butter, 3 cups sugar, 4 cups flour, 5 eggs, the whites 
and yolks beaten separately, i pound of citron, finely cut, 1 
teaspoonful lemon extract, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 

Pound Cake. 

One pound sugar, 1 pound flour, 1 pound butter, whites of 
8 eggs. Beat the whites and yolks separately. Flavor to 
taste. Bake in a moderate oven. These are nice baked in 
small pans. 

Cup Cake. 

Three eggs, cups augar, i cup melted butter, 1 cup 
water, 3 cups flour, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Bake in 
layers if desired. 

Chocolate Cake. 

Two cups sugar, 1 cup butter, 1 cup sweet milk, 5 eggs, 3 
cups flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. Rub butter and 



86 



The Kitchen. 



sugar to a cream, and beat the whites and yolks separately. 
Divide the dough, and put the whites in one part and the yolks 
in the other. Flavor the white with rose or lemon, and the 
yellow with nutmeg. Bake in jelly pans, two of each kind. 
Filling : 3 tablespoonf uls grated chocolate, i teacup sugar, as 
much boiling water, 1 teaspoonful corn starch, butter size of a 
hickory nut. Cook until it thickens ; when cold, flavor with 
vanilla. Put alternate layers of yellow and white. 

Rich Fruit Cake. 

Two pounds sugar, 2i pounds flour, 1-J pounds butter, f 
pound citron, 2 pounds each of raisins and currants, 1 oz. 
mace, 6 eggs, £ cup milk, 1 nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful cloves and 
1 of cinnamon, 2 teaspoonf uls baking powder. 

Black Cake. 

One pound each of flour, sugar and butter, 3 pounds each 
of currants and raisins, i pound citron, 10 eggs, 2 teaspoonfuls 
each of nutmeg and cinnamon, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 1 tea- 
spoonful baking powder. Brown the flour, and also use part 
brown sugar. 

Bread Fruit Cake. 

Take out 2 cupfuls of dough after it has raised the second 
time, and add 3 cupfuls of white sugar, creamed with 1 of 
butter, 1 teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a little hot water, 2 
tablespoonf uls of milk, 3 eggs. After all are well beaten, 
add a teaspoonful each of cinnamon and cloves, and i pound 
of currants. * 

Marble Cake. 

One and one-half cups sugar, ■} cup each of milk and butter, 
2i cups flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder, whites of 4 eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth. Flavor with lemon. This is for the 
white part. The dark part : li cups brown sugar, i cup 



Cakes. 



87 



butter, i cup milk, yolks of 4 eggs well beaten, 2i cups flour, 
2 teaspoonf uls baking powder, 1 teaspoonful each of cinnamon 
and allspice, i teaspoonful black pepper and half a nutmeg. 
Bake one hour if in one loaf. The white and dark parts may- 
be baked in alternate layers, or by putting in a tablespoonful 
of each color, in turn, till all is in. 

Cocoanut Kisses or Cones, 

One grated cocoanut, whites of 2 eggs, 1 cup powdered 
sugar. Beat the whites stiff, add sugar, then cocoanut. Make 
into cones with the hands, or by pressing them into little paper 
forms. Bake in a moderate oven. 

Hickory-Nut Cake. 

Two cups sugar, 1 cup butter, 1 cup water, 4 eggs, 3 cups 
flour, 3 teaspoonf uls baking powder, 2 cups hickory-nut meats, 
chopped fine. Flavor to taste. Bake in a loaf. 

Lady Fingers. 

Four ounces of sugar, yolks of 4 eggs well beaten, 3 
ounces flour, a little salt. Beat the whites to a froth, and stir 
them in with the mixture, a little at a time, till all is in. 
Butter a shallow pan, and squirt them through a little piece of 
paper rolled up, or a confectioner's syringe. Dust with sugar, 
and bake rather slowly. 

Spice Cake* 

One cup sugar, 1 cup molasses, ■§- cup butter, 1 cup sour 
milk, 3 cups flour, 3 eggs, 1 teaspoonful each of soda, nutmeg 
and cloves, i teaspoonful cinnamon. 

Orange Cake. 

Two cups sugar, i cup water, yolks of 5 eggs, whites of 3, 
grated rind and juice of 2 oranges, 2 cups flour, 3 teaspoonfuls 



88 



The Kitchen. 



baking powder, a little salt. Bake in four cakes, and put be- 
tween them and over the top frosting made of 2 cups sugar, 2 
eggs, the rind and juice of 1 orange. 

Crullers. 

Two cups sugar, 2 cups new milk, butter the size of an 
egg, 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder, 3 eggs. Flavor with nut- 
meg and cinnamon. Mix enough flour with them to roll out 
without sticking. 

Cream Doughnuts, 

One and a half cups sugar, 2 cups cream, 2 eggs, flour 
enough to roll out; 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder if the milk 
is sweet, or, if sour, 1 each of soda and cream tartar. Roll 
quite thin ; cut out in rings. 

White Cake. 

Two cups sugar, £ cup butter, 1 cup sweet milk, li cups 
each of corn starch and flour, 2 teaspoonfuls baking powder. 
Flavor with lemon. "Whites of 6 eggs, beaten to a froth, and 
added last. Bake in moderate oven. 

Jumbles. 

One cup butter, 1J- cups sugar, 2 eggs, 1 teaspoonf ul baking 
powder, dissolved in a tablespoonful of milk. Use flour 
enough to roll out thin. Sprinkle sugar on the moulding-board, 
and a little over the top in rolling out. Bake quickly. 

Queen Cake. 

One pound of flour, i pound of butter, i pound of sugar, 3 
eggs, 1 teacupful of cream, i pound of currants, 1 teaspoonful 
of soda, essence of lemon or almonds to taste. Work the but- 
ter and sugar to a cream, add the well-beaten eggs, and the 
cream with the dissolved soda, and lastly the flour. Beat all 
well together, and bake in small pans from J to -J hour. 



JAMS AND JELLIES. 

In preparing these sweetmeats it is always the best economy 
to get the freshest fruits possible, and to use the best grades 
of sugar. The kettles in which they are made should be por- 
celain-lined, granite ware, or brass or copper, though the last 
two must be kept polished in order to insure safety in their 
use. "Wooden spoons are better for stirring all acid fruits than 
iron or other metallic ones. 

Strawberry Jam. 

Mash the berries with a wooden spoon, or squeeze them 
lightly with the hand ; place in the preserving kettle and cook 
15 minutes. For each measured quart of berries add 1-J- pounds 
white sugar ; stir well, and boil slowly 25 to 30 minutes. 

The above directions for making jam will apply to all 
the small fruits, as currants, raspberries, blackberries, goose- 
berries, etc. 

Gooseberry Jelly. 

Boil the berries in a very little water until they are soft, 
squeeze them through a jelly-bag ; put the juice into a kettle, 
and add a cup of sugar to 1 of juice. Boil 15 or 20 minutes, 
and then pour into glasses. 

Red Currant Jelly. 

Pick the fruit from the stems, put it in a porcelain kettle 
over the fire and let it simmer until the juice is well drawn 
from the currants ; then strain through a jelly-bag ; do not 
squeeze it too much, or the pulp will be pressed through with 
the juice and make the jelly muddy. To each pint of juice 
allow | pound of best white sugar ; put the juice into the 

(89) 



90 



The Kitchen. 



kettle, and, when it boils, add the sugar ; keep stirring until 
it is done, removing the scum as it rises. After 20 or 30 min- 
utes put a little into a dish, and, if firm, it is done. Put in 
jelly glasses, and cover with oiled paper. 

Crab Apple Jelly. 

Cut the apples in halves, and put in a kettle with as little 
water as will keep them from scorching. Cover tightly with a 
lid, and cook quickly. Strain through a jelly-bag, add a cup- 
ful of white sugar to each cupful of juice. Set it over the fire 
and boil until it jellies. It will often jelly in 10 minutes, but 
it sometimes requires a full half -hour. Try the jelly every 2 
or 3 minutes, as the longer it boils the darker it is. 

Orange Jelly. 

Boil i pound of white sugar with i pint of water until there 
is no scum left (which must be carefully removed as fast as it 
rises) ; peel the oranges without breaking the thin skin of the 
inner divisions ; put these into the syrup and let them cook 5 
minutes ; then take them out and use the syrup for the jelly. 
When the oranges are well drained and the syrup is nearly 
cold, pour a little of the latter into the bottom of the mould ; 
then lay in a few pieces of orange ; over these pour a little 
jelly, and when this is set, another layer of orange, proceeding 
thus until the mould is full. Put it on ice or in a cool place, 
until wanted. 

Apple Jelly. 

Wash a peck of apples ; cut them up with 3 lemons ; place 
in a preserving kettle and cover with water. Boil until they 
can be mashed ; then put in a jelly -bag to drain. The jelly 
will be clearer if they are not squeezed. Measure the juice, 
and take as much sugar as juice. Boil the juice hard 25 min- 
utes, and skim; then add the sugar, and boil briskly 10 minutes, 



PRESERVING FRUIT. 



Tomato Preserves. 

To have good preserves the tomatoes should be about a 
third ripe. Remove the skin with a very sharp knife, for the 
thinner the peeling the more whole the tomatoes will remain. 
Pour into a preserving kettle enough water to cover the bottom 
an inch deep. Measure the tomatoes and put them into the 
kettle ; add as much sugar as tomatoes, and let them cook 
slowly for. several hours. The syrup must be thick and the 
preserves a rich brown. 

Rhubarb, or Pie Plant. 

Peel and cut it in small pieces, cover it with boiling water, 
let it stand five minutes, then pour of! all the water and put 
the rhubarb on the fire in a kettle with a little water, and a 
cupful of sugar to each bowlful of the fruit. After it has 
boiled slowly for 10 minutes, put into glass jars, and seal while 
hot. Glass is better than tin for rhubarb, which is very acid 
and may attack the tin. 

Canning Currants. 

Place the fruit in the kettle with very little water, and as 
soon as they begin to boil, add i pound sugar for each quart of 
berries. Boil 6 minutes ; remove from the fire and put into 
cans. 

Dried Rhubarb. 

Prepare the same as for pies, by peeling the stalks and cut- 
ting into pieces an inch long. Spread it on plates, not pans, 
and place in a warm oven. It should dry quickly, and then 
be put away in paper bags. 

(91) 



PICKLES. 

Pickles should not be kept in glazed or tin ware; stone jars 
or wooden casks are preferable. The vinegar should be either 
of wine or cider, as made vinegars are unreliable and unhealth- 
f ul. It should not be too strong, or it will eat the pickles. 

Cucumber Pickles. 

Select the medium, small-sized cucumbers. Soak in brine, 
not too salt, for 2 or 3 days. Dry them, and put in wide- 
necked bottles or jars; then to 1 gallon cider vinegar add 2 
cups sugar, a small handful whole cloves, a half cupful white 
mustard seed, a couple roots of horse radish cut fine, 3 or 4 
green peppers, with seeds removed, and a piece of alum the 
size of a butternut. Heat these ingredients, and pour over the 
pickles. Kepeat, heating the vinegar three consecutive days, 
and each time pour it hot over the pickles. Seal them in glass 
bottles, and they will require no further attention. 

Pickled Cauliflower. 

Break the heads into small pieces, and boil 10 or 15 minutes 
in salt and water; remove from the water and drain carefully. 
When cold, place in a jar, and pour over it hot vinegar, in 
which has been scalded a liberal supply of whole cloves, pep- 
per, allspice and white mustard. Tie the spices in a bag, and, 
on removing the vinegar from the fire stir into each quart of 
it two teaspoonfuls French mustard. 

Chopped Tomato Pickle* 

Chop fine a peck of green tomatoes, a head of cabbage, a 
few green peppers, and 3 heads of celery. Mix salt through 

( 92 ) 



Pickles. 



93 



them, a teaspoonful of salt to each cupful of pickle; let them 
stand over night, then turn upside down on a board to drain. 
Add enough vinegar to cover the chopped pickles, a teaspoon- 
ful of mustard, one of pepper and a few slices of horse radish. 
Boil five minutes, then pour hot over the chopped pickle. 

Pickled Onions. 

Peel small onions, and let them lie one day in salt and 
water. Scald ten minutes in milk and water. Let them drain 
well, and then put them in wide-necked bottles. Pour hot 
spiced vinegar over them. Cover closely. 

Martynia Pickles* 

Gather the pods before they form any woody fibre, scald 
them in salt and water till they are tender; drain well, and 
pour over them spiced vinegar. Cover, and let them stand a 
few days before using. 

Piccalilli. 

One gallon chopped cabbage, 2 quarts each chopped green 
tomatoes and onions; -£■ pound brown sugar, two ounces white 
mustard seed, 2 tablespoonfuls salt, i ounce each of pepper, 
celery seed and allspice, 1 teaspoonful cloves, 2 quarts vinegar. 
Boil till the cabbage, etc. , are tender. Then bottle and seal. 

Chili Sauce. 

To 1 peck ripe tomatoes, pared and chopped, add £ as 
many peppers, 3 cups sugar, 2 quarts vinegar, 3 tablespoon- 
fuls salt. Boil 2 hours. Bottle and cork or seal tightly. Add 
2 or 3 onions if preferred. 

Sliced Tomato Pickles. 

Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes, and a few small onions, 
put in a jar, and sprinkle over them a little salt; let them 



94 



The Kitchen. 



stand over night, then drain. Take a quart of vinegar, some 
pepper pods chopped fine, 2 tablespoonf uls of mustard, a tea- 
spoonful of ground cinnamon, a teaspoonful of ginger and i 
a teaspoonful of black pepper. Heat the vinegar, add the 
spices, and when it comes to the boil add the tomatoes. Let 
them boil 4 minutes, then pour into a stone jar. 

Pickled Peppers. 

Cut out the stems and seeds with a sharp knife. Fill the 
peppers with chopped cabbage, grated horse radish, mustard 
seed, small radish pods and salt. Replace the stem after cutting 
off the seeds ; tie it on firmly. Pack in a jar, and cover with 
cold vinegar. 

Sweet Tomato Pickles. 

One peck ripe tomatoes ; 4 lbs. of brown sugar, 1 qt. of 
cider vinegar, 1 oz. each of stick cinnamon and cloves ; tie 
the spices in a muslin bag. Make a syrup of the vinegar, 
sugar and spices, then put in the tomatoes and boil until 
tender, keeping them as whole as possible ; boil the syrup 3 
or 4 hours longer, or until quite thick ; place in jars ; when 
cold, seal up. 

Spiced Crab Apples and other Fruits. 

For 7 lbs. of crab apples use 3i lbs. sugar, 1 qt. best vin- 
egar, 2 ozs. of stick cinnamon, 1 oz. of whole cloves, and 2 or 
3 pieces of root ginger. Boil the syrup fifteen minutes before 
putting in the apples, cook until tender ; then remove to glass 
or stone jars, boil down the syrup one-half, and pour over 
the apples. 

N. B. Most other common fruits, as apples, pears, peaches, 
cherries, currants, gooseberries, etc., may be prepared by the 
same method as given for crab apples, varying the spices, sugar 
and vinegar as needed. 



EGGS. 



Scrambled "Eggs, 

Separate the yolks and whites, beat the former well, and 
pour into a hot buttered spider ; season with a little salt and 
pepper. When the yolks are partly cooked, pour in the 
unbeaten whites. Stir a little, so as to mix the white with the 
yellow yolks somewhat. A little chopped parsley mixed with 
the yolks is preferred by many. 

Poached "Eggs. 

Have ready, in a spider, boiling water, slightly salted. Drop 
into this, from a saucer, each egg as broken, being careful not 
to crowd them in the vessel. With a spoon, dip the water up 
over them until the yolks are coated ; then remove them, care- 
fully laying each on a slice of buttered toast. 

Bachelor's Omelet. 

Make a thin cream of i teacupf ul of milk, 1 teaspoonful of 
flour, and 3 well-beaten eggs. Salt and pepper to taste. Place 
2 ounces of butter in a pan, and, when very hot, pour in the 
batter. Let it remain a few minutes over a clear fire, then 
sprinkle upon the omelet some fine-chopped herbs and a few 
bits of onion; double it upon itself, and remove to a hot platter. 

Shirred Eggs. 

As each egg is broken, slip it into a small buttered egg-cup, 
or oval side-dish, strew salt and pepper over the top, and set in 
a hot oven for three or four minutes. Serve in the dish in 
which they are baked. 

(95) 



VEGETABLES. 

Mashed Potatoes. 

Peel carefully, boil in salted water, until done. Pour ofT 
the water, and let them drain perfectly dry. Season with 
butter, salt, and hot milk or cream, then take a large fork or 
spoon and stir vigorously until they are white and creamy. In 
this state, they are still further improved by rubbing them 
through a colander, and serving without further mixing. 

Boiled Potatoes. 

The water should always be salted, and boiling, when they 
are put in, and not be allowed to stop boiling until they are 
done, when it should be poured off immediately, and the kettle 
put on the back part of the stove, with the cover off, and the 
potatoes allowed to dry for a few moments before serving. 

Warmed-Over Mashed Potatoes. 

To 2 cupfuls of the cold potato add a cupful of milk, a 
tablespoonful butter, 2 tablespoonfuls flour, and 2 eggs beaten 
to a froth. Mix the whole with the cold potato until it is 
thoroughly light, then put it into a pudding-dish, and bake to 
a golden brown. The quality depends upon very thoroughly 
beating the eggs before adding them, so that the potato will 
remain light and porous after baking, almost like sponge cake. 

Egg Plant. 

Cut it in slices about £ of an inch thick. Soak in weak salt 
water over night. Before cooking, dry on a towel, dip in 
beaten egg, and roll in bread or cracker crumbs. Have 
ready a spider or pan, with hot drippings and butter, or all 

(96) 



Vegetables. 



97 



butter, if one prefers, and fry slowly, so as to be sure and have 
the plant thoroughly cooked, otherwise it is very tasteless. 
When a rich brown, serve, and send to the table hot. 

Saratoga Chips. 

Peel and slice as many potatoes as are needed for a meal. 
Put them into cold water J hour before they are to be 
cooked. Dry a handful at a time on a napkin, and drop them 
into hot lard. Stir while cooking, to keep them separate. 
When yellow, take up on white paper, till drained ; sprinkle 
salt over them, and send to the table hot. 

Stewed Corn. 

Cut carefully from the cob, and add just enough water to 
cover it. Cook from 20 to 30 minutes, then season with butter, 
pepper, salt, and add milk or cream, hot. 

Corn Fritters. 

To a quart of corn add 2 eggs well beaten, 2 tablespoonfuls 
flour, 1 teaspoonful salt, J teaspoonful pepper. Have ready a 
kettle of hot lard, drop the corn from the spoon into the fat. 
Fry a light brown. 

Succotash. 

Take double the amount of corn that you do beans. Cook 
the beans J hour before adding the corn, in just enough water 
to keep them from adhering to the kettle. Season with a plen- 
tiful supply of butter, pepper and salt, and add a little milk. 

Hubbard and Marrow Squashes. 

Hubbard squashes are generally preferred baked, as their 
rinds are so hard they can not be peeled easily. They re- 
quire an hour or more to bake well. Boston marrow and 
similar varieties should be pared and cut up in small pieces, 



98 



The Kitchen. 



and steamed or boiled. When tender, mash, adding bur:: 
and salt. A small quantity of thick sweet cream added is a 
great improvement. 

Green Corn Griddle Cakes. 

One pint of milk. 2 cups grated green corn, a little salt, 2 
eggs, a teaspoonful baking powder, flour sufficient to make a 
batter to fry on the griddle. 

Summer Squash, 

Cut them in quarters, tie the pieces in a thin muslin bag, 
and boil in slightly salted water until tender. Then remove from 
the kettle, and with a ladle press out all the water. Take out 
of the bag. put into a spider, mash fine, and add butter, pep- 
per and salt to taste. Let it simmer, and serve while hot. 

* Salsify. 

Scrape of! the outer skin of the salsify, and cut it into thin 
pieces. Boil an hour or more, as it should be very soft in 
order to be good. When done, put in a little salt codfish, 
picked very tine, having previously let the water boil nearly 
away, add plenty of milk to make a gravy, and season with 
salt, pepper and butter. Thicken the gravy a little, and, when 
serving, add small bits of toast. 

Salsify Fatties* 

The roots are cooked soft, mashed, and seasoned with a 
little butter, pepper and salt, and then made into small cakes, 
rolled in flour, and fried in hot fat or butter. 

Stewed Celery, 

Break apart and wa-h very carefully three heads of good 
celery ; cut the celery into thin pieces, and boil in salted water. 
When tender, drain and place neatly on a vegetable dish. 



Vegetables. 



99 



sprinkling over it some black pepper. Pour off part of the 
water ; wet into a smooth paste 1 teaspoonful each of corn 
starch and flour, 2 tablespoonfuls of butter and the same of 
rich cream ; stir this into the water, over the fire, till it thickens, 
and then pour over the celery. 

Cauliflower. 

Boil it very tender in water, slightly salted ; then drain 
well, and have ready either a drawn butter sauce to pour over 
it. or a white sauce, made of milk, thickened with a little 
flour and seasoned with butter, pepper and salt. 

Cream Cabbage. 

Cut very fine, put it into a sauce-pan, and cover with wa- 
ter ; when tender, drain off the water, add butter, salt and 
pepper, and a cupful of cream, Let it scald ; then serve. 

Peas. 

Boil in water enough to cover them well. "When done, 
which will be in about half an hour, add milk or cream, but- 
ter, pepper and salt. When the milk is thoroughly scalded, 
they are ready for the table. Serve while hot. 

Tomatoes a la Creme. 

Pare and stew a quart of ripe tomatoes until smooth. 
Season with salt, pepper and a tablespoonful of butter. When 
done, add one cup sweet cream and a little flour. Let it scald, 
but not boil ; remove at once. Pour over slices of toast. 

Scalloped Tomatoes. 

Stew and season a quart of tomatoes as for the table. Have 
ready as much bread crumbs and a little chopped onion. Place 
in a pudding dish alternate layers of the tomato and bread 
crumbs, seasoning with salt, pepper, plenty of butter, and a 



100 



The Kitchex. 



very little of the onion. Let the last layer be bread crumbs. 
Bake in a good oven 20 or 30 minutes. 

Baked Tomatoes. 

Select a dozen smooth, solid tomatoes ■ cut a slice from the 
blossom end, and scoop out a portion of the pulp ; season 
bread crumbs with butter, pepper and salt, and enough cream 
to moisten the crumbs. Fill the tomatoes with them, place in 
a pan, add a little water to keep them from burning, and bake. 

Asparagus. 

Break off the stiff portions, and place the green, soft parts 
into boiling water, slightly salted. Cook until tender ; drain 
off the water, make a drawn butter gravy and pour over it. 
Some prefer a white sauce, and have toasted bread laid on 
the platter before pouring on the sauce. 

Beets. 

They are simply boiled until perfectly tender, cut in thin 
slices, and served with butter and salt, or with vinegar poured 
over them, and used as pickles. When preparing beets for 
cooking they should never be cut at all, since otherwise the 
sweet juice boils out into the water and makes them tasteless. 

Cold Slaw. 

A cabbage knife cuts it very evenly, but without this it 
can be sliced very fine ; add a little sugar, salt and pepper, and 
pour cold vinegar over all. 

Lima Beans. 

Shell, wash, and put into boiling water with a little salt ; 
when boiled tender, drain and season them, and either dress 
with cream or a large lump of butter, and let them simmer for 
a few moments. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



To Remove Oil or Grease Spots from Carpets. 

Lay a piece of blotting paper over the spot, and set a flat 
iron on top, the iron just hot enough not to scorch. Change 
the paper as often as it becomes greasy. After the most of 
the oil has been extracted, apply whiting; leave it on for a day 
or two, then brush off, and the spot will have disappeared. 

To Remove Mildew from Cloth. 

Put a teaspoonf ul of chloride of lime into a quart of water, 
strain it twice, then dip the mildewed places in this weak solu- 
tion ; lay in the sun ; if the mildew has not disappeared when 
dry, repeat the operation. 

Cleaning Soiled Gloves. 

The best way to clean any color of kid gloves is to pour a 
little benzine into a basin and wash the gloves in it, rubbing 
and squeezing them until clean. If much soiled they must be 
washed through clean benzine, and rinsed in a fresh supply, 
Hang up in the air to dry. 

A Remedy for Mosquito Bites. 

Put 10 drops of refined carbolic acid into an ounce of rose 
water, shake well, and apply as needed. This has been in 
use several years, and proves cooling to the most tender skin. 

To Color Red. 

Take 1 ounce of cochineal, 1 ounce of muriate of tin, and 
a little cream of tartar for each pound of goods, dissolved in 
enough water to cover them. Boil the goods in the dye for 10 
minutes. Hang up to drain and dry. 

( 101 ) 



102 



The Kitchen. 



Paste for Scrap Books, etc. 

Dissolve a lump of alum as large as a hickory nut in a 
quart of boiling water. Mix i a pint of flour to a smooth, 
thick batter, stir in the alum water, and boil 5 to 10 minutes, 
until the paste looks smooth and transparent, then remove 
from the fire, and stir in a small teaspoonful each of oil of 
cloves and of sassafras. 

Cement for Glass. 

A goo<J, clear cement for glass is hard to find. One is 
made by dissolving an ounce of isinglass in 2 wine-glasses of 
spirits of wine. Care must be taken not to let it boil over, as 
it is highly inflammable. 

Washing Colored Calicoes. 

Dissolve say 10 cents' worth of sugar of lead in 6 to 8 quarts 
of pure water (rain water is best), and, after the garments are 
washed and rinsed, let them be dipped in and wrung out. It 
not only sets the color, but keeps it. 

Durable Whitewash. 

Fresh, well-slaked lime, stirred into equal parts of water 
and buttermilk, to the usual consistency, will make a white- 
wash that will not rub off. Keep it hot while applying it. 

Washing Flannels. 

The proper way to wash woolen garments or socks, is to 
rub them gently through warm suds made of white hard soap, 
with a teaspoonful of powdered borax to each two gallons. 
Rinse in clear, warm water, and dry quickly. 

To Raise the Pile of Velvet. 

Cover a hot iron with a wet cloth, and hold the velvet over 
it. Brush it quickly while damp, to raise the pile. 



Miscellaneous. 



103 



Iron Rust and Ink Stains* 

Rub lemon juice on the stain, then cover it with salt, and 
lay the articles in the sun. If necessary, repeat the process 
two or three times. Spots from most kinds of ink are sim- 
ilarly taken out. Vinegar will sometimes do it. 

To Get Rid of Moths, 

Sprinkle furniture and cushions thoroughly with benzine. 
It will not spot or injure the most delicate fabric, but is 
sure death to moths. The work must be done in a place where 
there is neither a fire nor a lighted lamp, for the benzine is 
very explosive. 

To Clean Marble. 

Take 2 parts of common soda, 1 part of pumice stone, and 
1 part of finely powdered chalk ; sift it through a fine sieve, 
and mix it with water ; then rub it well all over the marble, 
and the stains will be removed ; wash with salt and water, 

Setting Colors. 

To set the color in blue lawn, dissolve three cents' worth 
of saltpetre in a pailful of water, and dip the lawn in it several 
times before washing. 

To Drive Away Ants. 

A little quicklime placed in the infested places will drive 
away any kind of ants. 

Insect powder, which can be bought at any drug store, 
sprinkled around the infested place, will keep away all kinds 
of insects. 

To Keep Dolls from Breaking 1 . 

It has been proved by experience with several dolls that 
filling the entire head with wet plaster of Paris, and allowing 
it to set firmly, will render the head almost indestructible 



104 



The Kitchen. 



Cleaning a Hair Brush. 

Dissolve a little soda in warm water, and pour in a small 
amount of ammonia (liquid hartshorn), which you can get at 
any store. Hold the brushes with the bristles downward, and 
avoid wetting the back as far as possible ; shake until the 
grease is removed. Then rinse in cold water, and put in the 
air to dry. 

To Clean Silverware. 

Do not use soap in cleaning silver. When it wants polish, 
rub it with whiting on chamois skin. 

To Remove Stains from Linen. 

"Wet the part stained, and lay on it some salt of wormwood ; 
then rub without diluting it with more water. 

Homemade Vinegar. 

Put in an open cask 4 gallons of warm rainwater, 1 gallon 
of common molasses, and 2 quarts of yeast ; cover the top 
with thin muslin, and leave it in the sun, covering it up 
at night and when it rains. In 3 or 4 weeks it will be good 
vinegar. 

To Remove Tar from Cloth. 

Rub it well with turpentine, and every trace of tar will be 
removed. 

Washing Fluid. 

One can of the best concentrated lye, 5 cents' worth of salts 
of tartar, 10 cents' worth of ammonia dissolved in 1 gallon of 
water. Put in a jug, and cork tightly. To use it, wash the 
clothes through one suds first; then put nearly a quarter of a 
teacupful of the mixture to a boiler full of clothes. Boil 
thoroughly 20 minutes ; then remove, and rinse the clothes in 
two waters. 



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